Thursday, June 18, 2009

Hot Latte

If you have already read my post on the lingerie sew along, this is exactly the same thing.I am very excited to have completed my second bra! I thought I would show some of the details on how it's done.

Well, since we have tropical punch, key lime pie, and who knows what else, I thought I'd jump on that naming bandwagon and this is my "Hot Latte with extra of foam." This is another KS3300, only this time I made view A.

I used a different style wire this time and it totally changes the shape of the cup. I'll have to compare the two and see which I like better. I definitely liked not having to cut the wire though! View A has a few things that you do differently, and then there were a few things I did differently on my own.

First of all, I knew I wanted to cover the sides with stretch lace, so I cut the lace, planing to leave a scalloped edge on the bottom. I did as was suggested earlier and cut one lace piece, then laid that on top of the lace to get the exact mirror image (I can't remember who posted that tip, but it's a great one!) Then I basted the lace at the top, but not the bottom. When I attached the elastic to the bottom edge, I folded the lace up out of the way and stitched on the lace. Then I put the lace back down in place when I turned the elastic up to the inside and then used the 3 step zig zag through the powernet, elastic and lace all at once.

I also lined the bottom of the cups with powernet for more support. Liana suggested this and I must say I like the difference. Actually, I underlined them with the powernet because I thought the tricot would be more comfortable against the skin, so I have 3 layers on the bottom cup. As I was doing this, I realized that I neglected to topstitch the seam connecting the upper and lower cups on my first bra. It's not a problem on that one, but would be on this one I think because of the firmness of the powernet.

The KS pattern has you run a strip of tri-folded sheer tricot along the edge of the upper cups for stability. I bought this in light pink. When it is a single layer, like under the bridge, you can't even see it at all. Folded like this, you can tell that it is pink, but from the front, you really can't see it.

Since the only elastic I have is white, I didn't like the way it showed at the top of the cups where it attaches to the ring. I cut a little piece of lace and covered this. This sounds so simple, but I probably spent a half an hour trying to figure out what part of the lace I wanted to cut, what shape, placement, etc. I tell ya, I can turn anything into a project!

Also, the white elastic did not look good in the back (There is a 3" piece of elastic between the back of the bra and the strap. I covered this with tricot by just wrapping it around the elastic and then zigzagging both edges.

There is a little wrinkling in the side on this one, and I'm wondering if it has something to do with the difference in stretch between the stretch lace and the powernet. The other thing it could be is the different shaped wire that I used. It's minimal, so I'm not going to let it keep me from wearing the bra!

This one is a little tighter across the band, but I'm thinking it will relax a little as I wear it. All in all, I like the fit.
In the picture it looks like there is a crease in the left cup. I think it must be something strange with the lighting, because it doesn't seem to be that way when I put it on. I haven't worn it yet, so we'll see!


Gail said...

Brave pictures. I've always said said that I will not sew lingerie. But given the cost of quality bras here I may change my mind.

Christina said...

Very nice! Looks like RTW.

Amanda S. said...

It looks great. You are VERY brave to model a bra. Looks like the fit is perfect. Sewing lingerie seems really daunting. I think I'll tackle pants first. :)

Chicago Sarah said...

That is LOVELY. I want to try making just a simple slip-type nightie, and I'm afraid of the lace parts of that! The fit looks fantastic (and my husband just said to me, "hey, if you got it, work it!"). :)

Anonymous said...

Looks great.... On the fitting side and the wire you use - to me it looks like that wire is not really perfect. For "trying on" different wires - I got the recommendation to place just the wire under your bust. It should sit exactly in the "fold" under the bust and encircle it as exactly as possible. On your pictures it looks like the wires sit too low in the middle - there seems to be some fabric there with nothing in it.


Summerset said...

Looks good - hot latte indeed! You did an excellent job with the lace on the back band - that's how much of my RTW is done (there's getting be fewer pieces of that!).

Unknown said...

Wow -- it's gorgeous. You have inspired me to at least try to make a bra. I doubt it will look as nice as yours, but I think I will definitely give it a try.

cidell said...

So, your 'tricot' is essentially whatever fabric you use for the bra? Do you know the stretch content by chance? You bra looks amazing, but it's making me nervous!

I'm also wondering if I shouldn't buy the bra strap bundle from Fabricmart... thoughts?

BConky said...

Beautiful bra. I've been thinking of trying a bra. I even bought all the materials, now just need to get brave and try it. Thanks for all the tips.

Nancy Winningham said...

Sabine, I put on the bra again today and it actually fits better than in the picture I think. There is definitely wrinkling on the sides, but the "empty" cup on the bottom of both cups is not there like it looks in this picture. Thanks for you input. It made me go back and examine the fit more closely.

Charlene McGill said...

It very pretty and the fit is perfect. Good Job!

JoanneM said...

Looks perfect.I second Cidell's questions. Can any fabric be used for the tricot? What should the stretch be? My question- what is the powernet part vs the tricot? I think I'm going to give it a try!!!!