Monday, September 01, 2008

Underlining Question

LindsayT asked me a good question on my last jacket post. "How long did it take you to fuse the underlining?" Well, let's just say that I did it the longest way possible! It took hours. THis was my method
1. Cut all the pattern pieces
2. cut all the fusible underlining from the same pattern pieces
3. cut down all the fusible underlining pieces so that they don't extend over the edge and fuse to the ironing board.

Now, basically, I ended up cutting each pattern piece 3X! (actually 4 since the fashion fabric was cut single layer!) THere are several other options which I have considered
a. block fuse all of it. This would definitely be the fastest method, but would waste more underlining
b. make separate pattern pieces for the underlining so that I only have to cut it once.
c. Lay the underlining on the fashion fabric before cutting so that I am cutting both the fashion fabric and underlining at the same time. THen I would just have to cut down the underlining pieces afterward.
d. Since I plan on making this jacket a few more times, I could cut several layers of underlining at once and have them ready for future projects.

So, what do you do when you have a project that requires fusible (or regular) underlining?


Nancy K said...

Block fusing is the easiest way to do this. you really don't waste all that much, in fact really no more than if you were cutting out separately. You still have the same spaces between the pattern pieces. You also don't distort the interfacing and everything is easier to keep on grain. You also get to mark directly on the underlining when you cut out instead of having to put the pattern back on the piece and mark after the interfacing is applied.
Saves lots of time and is more precise. Of course, it helps if you have a large ironing table and a large cutting table.

Sigrid said...

I've yet to do a project with complete fusible interfacing. My coat fabric will need it, and I was thinking to do it the same way Nancy K described.
Your jacket is coming along very nice, beautiful fabric too.

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

I agree with Nancyk...I block fuse, it saves time and I am sure that the entire piece is fused.

Nancy K said...

I should add that I did a Chanel type fabric jacket a few years ago that needed the stability of underlining and I block fused it. Remember that you can layer fusibles. So you can then add either another layer of the same interfacing, or a heavier wt. The underlining should be your lightest weight. You can also, if you have narrow interfacing butt up the edges when you fuse to make it wider.

Elaray said...

Block fusing, here. Carolyn suggested that method to me when I made a jacket from bouclé. I guess it saved a little time, but it seemed to take forever.

Summerset said...

Block fuse. You really don't waste any more of either fabric by doing so.

BCN - UNIQUE designer patterns said...

Nancy .- I think you have followed the correct way. All options are good, of course, but the way it has done you can better control the amount of fabric, that this is something very important. The seam also deserves a good effort. congratulations. greetings, Paco

Meg said...

I'm glad you addressed this, Nancy, as I'll need to fuse some jackets I am making. I thought I would do the cut the pattern first, then fuse method, but I'll try block fusing. Thanks!

Audrey said...

I love the fabric you are using for your 1945 jacket. It is going to be a very versatile jacket for coordinating with other items in your wardrobe, what with all the colors in the plaid. I have the pattern, but have never made it. I remember reading somewhere that it has a lot of “roominess" in the upper chest area. I use fusible weft underlining on most of my jackets. I use either method b. or c. If I have a large piece of fusible interfacing I use b, if not c. For some reason, I have trouble finding fusible weft in my local fabric store. I am looking forward to seeing the finished jacket.