Saturday, December 08, 2007

Calling all fit/jacket experts

Today I cut out the muslin for the Mc Calls jacket for the flip and stitch class. When I put the muslin on, it felt like it fit pretty well, but just a little snug in the bust. Well, as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words! I cut a size 12 and did the following adjustments: I have already lowered the shoulder 1/4", and increased the side piece by 1/2 inch at the bust. I also narrowed the shoulder by about 1/4"

ETA: I did take out each of the front and back side seams by .25 inches and what a difference it made. The whole jacket shell hangs better. I then took in the upper back by 1/4 inch on each center back seam. I'm hoping to put the sleeves in tomorrow to get a better idea of the overall fit.

I can see the following fit issues:

1 I need to increase the bust more
2. The waist is also a little to tight
3. The jacket needs to be about 1" longer
4. The upper back looks too big - but I need to put in the sleeves before I decide to cut that down.
5. Do I need a sway back adjustment - or do I just need to increase the hips a bit?
6. If I do do a SBA, do I just shorten the CB or also the SB seams? (there are no side seams on this jacket, it is a separate side piece.)
7. I think the neck fits OK

Any suggestions?
(I'm using the brown wool herringbone that matches the skirt I made from Oct 06 BWOF)


Debbie Cook said...

"Do I need a sway back adjustment - or do I just need to increase the hips a bit?"

I think neither. You need to take a tuck all around to decrease the length between shoulder and waist. I'd do this below the armhole, and on both front and back. The front doesn't look too long at the moment because you also need to do an FBA and so your bust is stealing that extra length.

But overall, I think it fits pretty good and will only need a few relatively minor adjustments.

Sigrid said...

I'm not a fitting expert by any means for others, but I would also increase the bust like you said and set in the sleeves first before you do any other alterations.
And as you have about the same figure as I have I think I would start with making the hips a bit wider and then see how it fits. Debbie might be right, but my personal impression is that the hip fits very close in the back, and you could use some wearing ease.
If you are going to use shoulder pads put them in for your next fitting (I forgot too).

Beth H said...

No suggestions, just a comment that I love seeing muslins and speculating "What would I do" then seeing how your changes come out. Thanks for showing them.

Nancy Winningham said...

Thanks Debbie - actually, I usually need to LOWER the waist by one inch, so I was surprised when I looked at the pictures and the waist looked too low! I realized after I posted that although I had done the FBA to the side seam, I had not increased the length on the front

Sigrid - I totally forgot about the shoulder pad thing. thanks

Last night I let out the side seams and was surprised at how much that lowered the waist! I am going to put in the sleeves after church and take more pix. Thanks so much for your suggestions.

Summerset said...

I'm late to the party, but yes, a FBA would help. The side views really show where the bust is pulling up the front hem. The fit will be slightly different with the sleeves/shoulder pads anyway!

Boppingbeth (aka Beth or Elizabeth) said...

Check this with a shoulder pad if you will use them in the final jacket--sometimes that back adjustment is simply shoulder pad allowance. You need a little bit across the bust (the fba includes width and length, right), I think, which will correct the slight pull up on the front.

Anonymous said...

The first thing that I would check is the bust point. The drag lines pointing to the bust are because the fullest part of the bust shaping and your bust don't match. This took me the longest time to figure out for myself. I would think that your bust is lower than your jacket is. Pin a pleat across the back above the waist and see if the wrinkles disappear. If not, let out the back sas.