Saturday, July 21, 2012

Bombshell - Underlining

Today I worked on the underlining, but I did not finish.  I still need to cut the upper bust cups and do those.  I thought for sure I had done them, but I can't find them anywhere, so maybe I didn't.  I'm going to keep looking before I cut them out again though!

After you pin the under lining pieces to the fashion fabric, you rough cut around the edges and then baste the pieces together on the seam lines.  I tried to make sure that the X where there is an intersection of seams would show on the right side.  I really do like using the silk thread for doing this.  You can't see the thread very well on the muslin side because of the color I chose, but it shows up well enough on the print side.  On the photo below, the first side is pinned and the next one is partially basted.  The picture at the bottom shows the right side of the fabric with the basting.

I am just using a cotton print for this dress.  A few years ago I took the bustier class at PR from Kenneth King.  We used fashion fabric, underlined with unwashed denim, had an interlining of flannel, and then lined with cotton.  On this, I am using cotton for the fashion fabric, muslin for the underlining, and probably cotton broadcloth for the lining.  I'm just using the recommended fabrics for this one, so I'm hoping it will have enough structure.  On the bustier, I used rigeline boning, but for this one, spiral steel boning is recommended.  Now that my muslin is finished, I know what sizes of boning to order, so I will be ordering that this weekend.