Saturday, June 21, 2008

One of these days...

I will get fit right on a blouse. It's got to happen!! But, it won't happen today. I'm done sewing until I get back from vacation - unless I get everything done today that I need to and get a moment of inspiration later this evening. I always have the same problem with blouses. Right now, you can see that there are terrible draglines from the bust to the waist. Also, there is too much fabric above the waist in the back. I have already raised the waist 1" in the back and raised the darts as well. The FBA seems too big because there is excess fabric at the bust point and the darts seem to stick out at the sides, but the drag lines would suggest that there is not enough fabric at the bust. I've tried raising the darts, and now they seem too high, but when they were lower, they stuck out at the sides. this shouldn't be so difficult.

AS you can see here, there is too much fabric above the dart on the blouse fabric. Also, now the dart looks too high. The dart point was about 1" shorter in, but I lengthened it because it was kind of pointing out to the side.


Anonymous said...

Have fun on vacation. When you get back, you'll be refreshed and be able to tackle this again.

I have a couple of thoughts about the fitting. One is that you could post on Artisan Square -- there's a Stitcher's guild critique section. It's at

The next thought is that because you have a very erect stance, you need more length in the front and less in the back. It looks to me as if the tension is between the bust and the back of your hips. What may be happening is that the extra length in the back is dropping the waist (narrow) onto your hips. If so, folding out some of the length in the back waist (like the fish eye dart for back legs) might solve it.

Another idea is to release the side seam below the waist. The front and back should drop without tension.

LauraM said...

I hope you enjoy vacation! I have to ask if you thought about any sway back? I see additional fabric in the back above the waist, and the drag line run from your bust to your tush. That seems familiar from FFRP on a sway.

kbenco said...

Nancy, maybe you are my much more slim twin? Do you really have to go on vacation? Wouldn't you rather stay here and wrestle with your blouse so that I can just follow your sensible alteration plan? :) If I can ever face my blouse fitting issues again your work will be very helpful! I hope you have a good trip, and when you come back I will be wearing...t shirts!

Linda said...

Karen is right, you could be twin. She posted on SG for just about the same problem you have. You need to alter that shoulder seam so that it sits more forward. Try the first blouse without the sleeve, does it still have the drag lines in the front and the excess in the back? If no, then I think what happens is that you then insert the sleeve which forces the top to fit within the sleeve fit which causes everything to angle back. I think Karen has the same problem too.

Linda said...

I think Helen is correct about releasing the side seams. I don't really think it is a bust issue, you seem to have that right now because there is no excess above as in the lower photo.

They always say the folds or pulls point to the problem. I just can't tell sometimes where it is pointing. However my first thought was it was hip issue.

Forget about it for now and enjoy the vacation.