Thursday, June 19, 2008

NL6407 - Getting Better

All evening, as I've been doing other things, I've been thinking about this pattern and considering everyone's helpful comments. I traced off pattern revision 2 and made another muslin front. After doing that, I noticed that I still needed to raise the dart, so I did that by 1.25 inches.

As you can see, this one fits much better and I have plenty of room in the arm. (More on that later.)

This picture was taken before I raised the dart in the pattern. I think I will need to raise it even more than I did on the pattern though from the looks of this picture.

After looking at Birgitte's link to fashion incubator, I carefully measured my sleeve cap and armhole openings on the seam lines. There was only a difference of about 1/2 inch. However, when I put the two pieces together, there was more like 1 inch difference. I think this is because I altered my pattern to try to fit what I did on the muslin and I must have been a little off.

Here is the original pattern piece. I have found that I have trouble with sleeves that have a really high sleeve cap like this one does. I decided to flatten the top and add the the width by slitting up the center of the sleeve and then spreading at the bottom seam line. You have to remember to re draw the grainline after doing this alteration.

After making the sleeve, I remembered that I did not scoop out the front and add to the back. I did this to the pattern piece, and although it didn't really look much different when I looked at the whole piece, you can see the difference when you fold the sleeve in half. Also, I notice that the shoulder seam mark is about 1/2" toward the front of the sleeve.

I also realized that I needed to raise the waist seam in the back, so I did that on the pattern piece, but not on the muslin. I'm done with the muslins now - I hope! Maybe I will get to get this thing cut out after all. :-)

Thank you again to all of you who took time to give me suggestions on my blog or PR. It's so wonderful to know that I can count on my online friends for things like this. I love that!


Elaray said...

I am impressed by your attention to fit! I don't know if I have the patience for that. I know the blouse will look great.

Anonymous said...

Good show. Try to flatten out the back of that sleeve some. Also, I can't see the armhole shaping but those usually need some work too. In case any of your readers are interested in the link you were referring to, that is Sleeve Cap Ease is Bogus. There's also a part two in the series.

Meg said...

I really, really must slow down and learn/obsess about fit, like you are doing here. I'm sort of leaving fit out of the equation, which I know is a big mistake....

Birgitte said...

Great! And now you got Kathleen's attention so there's no stopping you :-) Perfect fit is heading your way girl!
Lindsay, I know how you feel. It was a light bulb moment for me, and now it's number one on my list.