Yesterday I spent a lot of time tissue fitting a pair of pants. After watching the Patti Palmer pants fitting video which I got from Smartflix, and seeing McCalls patterns on sale for $1.99, I decided to get the Palmer Pletch pants pattern 5239. I love that the pattern has super detailed instructions on how to tissue fit pants. I also have the book Pants for Real People, and the instructions on the pattern sheet are pretty much the same. PP suggests buying the pattern by your hip size and if you are between two sizes, to go with the smaller size. My hip measurement is between a 14 & 16 in patterns, so I went with the 14. I probably should have gone with the 16 since I ended up adding tissue to all of th side seams in the hips and thighs. It was also interesting that when I tried on the tissue after a few adjustments, it just didnt go up to my waist correctly, so I added 1" to the crotch depth - and in the end, I ended up lowering the waist seam by 1"! Its funny because basically I took out what I added in. I think this must mean that I have a high hip and needed the hip curve to be a little higher up. It really made a difference in the wrinkles and fit.
Here is a picture of the pants front pattern after the tissue fit alterations. I just put it on the purple fabric so you could see the tissue paper. And guess what? The pattern actually recommends that you make the pants in black wool crepe! BUT, since I am not allowing myself to buy the coveted black wool crepe (It's coveted because I have to get it online, no one sells it here) until I make two pairs of pants, I will have to make it out of another color. Today I will decide what to make it out of.....
I have had really limited success with pants, so I'm almost afraid to cut my fabric! The last pair of pants I attempted was a pair of black wool pants from a TNT. But, I over adjusted it and they came out too tight! What I do like about the PP pants pattern is that it is sewn with 1" side seams and you pin fit the pants before you sew them as well. DH is at work today and I'm not, so I'm hoping to get started on the fabric of these pants today. I'll keep you posted of progress.
Friday, January 02, 2009
Tissue fitting pants
Posted by Nancy Winningham at 8:58 AM
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5 comments:
I always add to side seams, my 'in case' allowance and use Palmer Pletch fit as you sew method. I am much happier that way! Good luck on these pants. I liked how your HP Razer pant came out, even if you didn't.
Sounds like you're on the right track with these pants. I always cut extra and fit as I go, basting and trying on before finalizing seams. I think you're right about the adding in and taking out - you've just moved the hip curve where it needed to be, strange how that works sometimes.
It doesn't seem logical, but fit is strange that way. Just like learning how to ride a bike, right?
I always add to side seams for insurance too.
Which 'view' are you making?
And what's wrong with the purple fabric?
I am glad to read about this project. I have yet to make a good fitting pair of pants. Every year I say I going to do this and then don't. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
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