Thursday, November 13, 2008

Razor Sharp Pants are cutting me to shreds!

Why, oh why do I keep buying HotPatterns? Answer: I love their styles, hate their patterns! Every time I make a Hot Patterns pattern (admittedly, I've only made a few) they give me fits. I've heard so much about the HP pants's infamous L-shaped crotch curve, I thought I'd give them a try.

First of all , let me say, the pattern piece is nothing like you'd expect. There is no fly extension/facing on the front piece, but it is a separate pattern piece that is added on. Their directions are very confusing, and they have you add the waist facing to the fly facing before you attach it to the center front. That was about all I could get from their instructions (no illustrations, of course,) After reading this several times, and then trying to play with the pattern pieces, I still couldn't get it. I found a similar application in the Readers' Digest Sewing boook, but it did not include the facing instructions. I tried looking at a couple of tutorials on line, but ended up kind of using a combination of everything to figure it out on the muslin.




The next problem is, that in the picture and the line drawing, the pockets look like they are at an angle. In reality, they line up almost exactly with the seam line. You have to be really careful not to catch them in the seam and now they kind of stick out funny. I read some information in Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing Step byStep book that I think will help me with this.








Next, the crotch curve. The muslin is made and I try them on. I have already raised the waist by one inch, and overall, the fit is pretty good. However, the back of the legs is super full. I get out my Pants for Real People book, and see that I need to not only reduce the lower part of the L by about 1/2", but I also end up lowering the crotch curve in the back an additional inch! Now, some of these adjustments I was able to make on the muslin and some I just made on the pattern pieces. I guess I'll have to cut them out with wide seam allowances and hope for the best. Oh, and yes, as I'm wearing the muslin right now, I squatted down to get out my black fabric from the cabinet, and the back seam split on the pants. Hmmm.... guess I need to add a little more fabric there too!

8 comments:

Elaray said...

I've been interested in HP since they first came on the scene. But, unfortunately, I've read more bad things about them than good. Well, not actually "bad", but many people have found them challenging. I think I can wait a little longer before I tackle one.

Nancy K said...

You need to go over to Sigrid's tutorial blog and look at Kay's faced pant fly front tutorial. It is brilliant. The instructions on this pattern are backwards and they have never changed them, shame on HP!
Secondly, I just added a cut on fly facing. There is no way I would add any extra fabric to my stomach! I dropped that back corner by about 1 1/2" before I got it to the right place for my gravity dropped rear end.

Christina said...

I'm with you - I love HP styles, but their patterns are always *work* to make up. Good luck with your razor sharp pants!

Lindsay T said...

Ack! You know I have this pattern too but with all the agita it's giving you...I dunno about it. Thanks for the heads up

Anonymous said...

Nancy, HP patterns are drafted using Wild Ginger software products, a couple of which I own and use. While I find them very useful for fitting my upper body, I have never been happy with the way it drafts fitted pants. In reference to your back seam splitting issue, I wanted to mention that the back seam drafts (for me anyway) almost vertically - in other words, not enough bias to work, IMO. Compare that pattern piece with another pattern and you'll see what I mean. Some people have had more success by moving darts, etc. so they can cut that seam with more of a bias angle, though I haven't tried it myself. Can't really help much with the fly/facing issues, other than to say that I always tape that fly extention on to the pattern before I cut, so it's not a separate piece. Hang in there - you do beautiful work!

SherryV

Vicki said...

Oh dear! Not much fun :( When I get around to making pants, it won't be a HP that is for sure. Hope yours work out how you want in the end.

The Feed Dog.com said...

I've alway had trouble with the fit of pants from the "big 4" pattern companies and I'll be interested to see your results. I heard that Burda patterns have a more "real people" fit, that's going to be my next try. "If at first you don't succeed,..."

Nancy

Sherril said...

I'm looking forward to seeing how you like the finished garment. Sorry these are becoming such a challenge for you.