Part of my mini wardrobe is the 105 blouse from BWOF April 2009. After seeing Pati Palmer last weekend I decided to try the FFRP method for FBA again and use tissue fitting. I cut a straight 36 from BWOF and tried it on as shown in the book. I found that I needed about 1-3/4 -2" to meet the CF, but the back seemed to be right. I'm doing all the fitting without a "buddy" using just the bathroom mirror and a hand-held mirror.
I noticed that the neckline was too low in the back, judging by the location of my necklace on my neck. Pati said that she thought I had a forward neck, so even though I don't have a "high round back", that's the adjustment that would work for this. I did about a 5/8" HRB adjustment and also a forward shoulder just pivoting from the neck to rotate the shoulder seam 1/2" to the front. Now, If I only had to wear a shirt from the collar to the upper third of the armscye I think I would have great fit!!
Next, the dreaded bust. I used the FBA as outlined in FFRP and added 1-3/4" in the width. This also widened the whole front, which means I did not have to flare out at the hip. However, I may need to taper in a bit at the waist. There is no dart in this pattern, so I decided to add one. (You need one to do this FBA) This alteration does lower the dart, so after I tried on the tissue fit, I realized that I needed to raise the dart about 1" I'm still not getting the CF on the pattern to match my CF, but I really don't want to make an even larger dart or two darts. I decided to add an addtional 1/2" to the front side seams only by doing pivot and slide. (which is mentioned in the book, does not go into detail)
I think I will still make a muslin because I'm not sure that all of my alterations are right and I'm using art tracing paper which is stiffer than pattern paper which drapes better.
I'm hoping to do the muslin and make the blouse this weekend.
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Posted by Nancy Winningham at 9:01 PM