Last weekend when I was in Loes Hinse's shop, I noticed that all of her jackets were what she calls "cardiganized". In other words, no lining, no separate facings in the back, and the front is extended 1-1/2 " and turned under for a self facing. She is using a lot of knits and loose wovens for a super light feel. She feels the facings cause pulling and give an unflattering look for her flowy style. (even though the patterns include facings.)
Tonight, I cut out a pattern for the Garbo jacket using her fit tips and cardiganizing the pattern. Wow! What could be simpler? Only 3 pieces, no facings, no darts. Normally I do an FBA, forward shoulder, wider at the hips, and narrow shoulder. I would normally have added a dart and/or lowered the front hem. This time I cut a straight small with the only adjustment being adding 1/2" inch at the neckline on the front shoulder.
The fabric I am using is a very loose weave rayon acetate blend. It may be too unstable for this, but we will see. It is an ivory/oatmeal color with a "linen" weave. I really like it and it is soft and silky feeling.
I also purchased an online "seminar" from the Casual Elegance Website called "Sewing with Loes 2000" She recommended this one to me because it has all of the information she gave me on pants fitting. It also has information on stabilizing, her philosophy, fabric choice, sewing processes and laying out the pattern and cutting. Even though I am an experienced sewer, I found it good information and worth the price, which was $35.00.
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
A New Garbo
Posted by Nancy Winningham at 8:12 PM
Labels: Garbo, Loes Hinse
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9 comments:
I know you mean Greta, but in Australia a garbo is the person who collects the garbage. I can't get that picture out of my head, but do like the carigan (can we call it that?!) Cheers
Great tips, thanks for sharing the information regarding the class
Actually, the name of the pattern is "Garbo" I guess Loes has never been to Australia!
How does a class like this work? Is it a "work though at your own pace?" Let us know how you like it.
Looking forward to your "cardiganized" jacket. I'd like to sew a more casual jacket myself too and this pattern looks so good.
This simple, streamlined cardigan look is wonderful!
I'm missing something from your description. LOVE the idea of no facings and I get self facing the front but how is the rest of the neckline finished?
The rest of the neckline is just serged and turned under. THe one I was looking at was made with a knit fabric, but I think she is doing the same on the wovens. Either that, or use seam binding. I still havent got to cut, but I'm hoping to get to do a little sewing later today.
Thanks for your comments on Loes' seminar. I have purchased the others but balked at the $35 price tag on the one you mentioned. Glad to hear you feel it was worth the money. I may treat myself now. Your jacket looks terrific.
Sue
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