I'm working on a muslin, and it's a good thing. First of all, I decided to make this pattern from Burda. I think this is only the 2nd Burda envelope pattern I have made. The sizing is different than the big four, so I figured I better make a muslin. As I was laying out the pattern pieces for tracing, I realized that this is a pattern for petites! I looked at the envelope again, and nowhere did I see anything that indicated that this was for petites. I am 5'6 and the petite pattern is 5'3 and under. Finally I found this little indicator on the back of the envelope.
Well, since I already had everything out and ready, I decided to start tracing and try to get it to fit. I had to make a lot of changes, but I think I have the muslin fitting pretty well now. I have gained weight, so all of my usual changes are even more exaggerated now! After I tried on the muslin, I pinned out some additional changes as you can see here. I started with a 12 on the top, and am ending up taking about 1/2" out of the CF. It fits fine through the ribcage, but I had to go all the way to a size 22 for the hips! This is a very fitted dress - why I decided to make a fitted dress during the fattest stage of my life, I'll never know.
As I was putting together the muslin, I realized that the darts on the top and bottom do not line up. This is a perfect example of why you need to make a muslin sometimes - if not, you should ALWAYS walk your darts when they have seams to match up with. I'm not sure if the alignment problem was with the pattern, or if it had to do with my alterations, but I think it was the pattern because even the back did not line up and I did not change that.
After I tried on the muslin, I pinned out extra fabric at the center front and took out most of the length I had added in. I also had to let out some seams in the thigh area, so I know I have to add more width to the pattern there. Next, I made these changes on the paper pattern. I didn't make a sleeve, but I did walk the pattern lines to make sure they would fit and tried on the paper pattern. I did add 1/2" to the width.
I think the changes I have made will work. Now it is time to cut the real fabric!
Friday, June 11, 2010
Posted by Nancy Winningham at 11:18 AM