Saturday, January 10, 2009

McCalls 5239 - second pair

I'm much happier with this pair of pants. They fit better and the underlining really makes them comfortable. I did make the legs a little wider on these and I like it better. I'm glad I got the fit right on these, and now I can use this pattern to help me adjust other pants patterns.

From Pants 2009


I'm not so sure I like the shape of the crotch curve on this pattern because I still think it's a little tight across the widest part of my butt.
From Pants 2009

I did go to the gym today, and so if I keep that up, maybe all my pants will fit better! These pants have a CB zipper, and I really prefer a side zipper or fly front, just because it is easier to get on and off.

There were a couple of questions about the glue and fold method I used. I used Sobo glue, which is permanent glue, so you must be sure that it is in an area that will either be cut off or will not show. I have used regular craft glue before and it worked well too. I've heard that Elmers washable school glue is great because it washes out, but I haven't tried it. I've even read of people using regular glue sticks to do this. I haven't had much success with glue sticks since you have to rub them on the fabric and that sometimes distorts the grain, but I know that even Patti Palmer recommends them.
I used Sheermist Batiste for the underlining, which is a poly/cotton blend. I find that even the little bit of cotton that is in this makes it very breathable and comfortable. I have underlined pants with silk organza, and although I like the way it works, it was too scratchy for me. I would have to find an organza that was softer than the one I used for those pants. Regular lining can work for underlining too, but it should have a pretty firm weave and not distort easily. I would not use ambiance for an underlining. Even though it makes a beautiful lining, I wouldn't use it for 2 reasons. One, it wrinkles easily, and two, the fabric shifts too much and I don't think it would work well to stabilize the fashion fabric.


Although underlining does not looks as beautiful as lining, it gives a good finish and is very comfortable to wear.

Underlining also helps prevent wrinkles and helps the fashion fabric wear better. Underlining works great with sheer or white fabrics because the seam allowances won't show through like they do with lining. I would not use underlining if I were using a scratchy wool because the seam allowances would still be touching my skin. I would line those. Mainly I chose to underline these pants rather than line them for two reasons. One, I wanted to stablize the fashion fabric, and two, it's a little faster than lining since the two fabrics are sewn as one.

12 comments:

Chicago Sarah said...

Awesome pics- thanks for the detail. :)

Summerset said...

You look good in these! The insides are very nicely done - and I'm sure more comfortable to wear than unlined pants. You are correct when you say you can use this pattern to alter other pants patterns for you. You can also start stealing details from other patterns and transfer them to this one. You've got so many possibilities now!

Linda said...

I like these pants. Look very nice fitting on you.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Nancy - you look great in these!

Little Hunting Creek said...

Those look great on you - you've found one of the the holy grails of sewing - pants that fit! Now you can make any pants by swapping details.

Birgitte said...

These look really good, Nancy. And you look really good in them ;)
See you soon!

Tamara said...

Thank you for your info about underlining. This is something I am trying to get figured out.

Cindy Lou said...

Nance-- LOVE those! You have indeed found The Grail. You've put so much work into those, and they have the magic of looking *effortless.* That's what I strive for, and almost always fall just short of...

Vicki said...

You have really got this pant pattern to work for you. They look great. What a useful TNT.

Sew Passionista said...

These look really great on you! Very nice pants!

Charlene McGill said...

These pant fit you really well. I like the idea that you enlarge the width of the lower pant leg. It makes the pant hang smoothly. Great job!

Nancy K said...

I use glue stick to attach underlinings, though I do hand baste through dart centers. I use David Coffins directions, and just dab a small amount on and if I want to sew right away, I iron it dry.
The pants look great on you. I do agree with Somerset about stealing details from elsewhere and just putting them on your tnt pattern.