This is actually New Look pattern 6407.
On the left side of the muslin, (my left, viewing right) I did NOT make the sleeve bigger, which was part of the problem on that side. Plus, by cutting the armhole 1/2" bigger all the way around, it was just way too tight. I slit the sleeve from hem to top, but the blouse was still pulling at the armscye.
Heidi - I do think I need a larger FBA, but as it is, the dart is now gigantic. I have not seen the the alteration you are speaking of, but would love to. Also, I agree that both of the darts need to be shorter - I don't want to look like I'm wearing a sculpted Madonna shirt! This size 10 was over on my shoulder, so I took the right shoulder in 1/2" and think it sits better there.
Birgitte - the pattern does have a line of ease/gathering stitches across the top of the sleeve cap. I didn't worry about evening them out since this is a muslin.
Marji - In using the FFRP FBA, I had to increase the width at the CF slash by 1-1/2 inches. Maybe I should have done two. The problem I have with this is that first of all, it changes the armhole from a smooth curve to something like a fish hook. I adjusted this by taking a second slash under the armscye to lower the curve (Kind of like the Sandra Betzina method)
Secondly, the dart ends up being about a mile wide. You can see that I redrew this dart several times. I think it is pointing to the right spot, but does it look like it needs to be raised? I do think that both darts need to be shortened as I said before. Oh, the other thing is that using this method, you slit right through the vertical dart, so I redrew the dart under the apex. I don't think I was supposed to sew the entire widened dart together.
So, do any of you see anything/something else that I am missing? I've already widened the sleeve by 1". I'm not sure if it's just the sleeve thats giving me trouble. Why am I not getting this? Something must be counter intuitive (at least to me) here, because like Heidi, this seems to have been my nemesis for quite some time.
Thanks for all of your help. I'm going back to the pattern pieces and seeing how well I can incorporate all of your advice. Obviously, this blouse is not going to make it on our trip. Well, maybe it could, if I didn't have to take care of all of lifes other little details that get in the way of my sewing ;-)
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Posted by Nancy Winningham at 12:45 PM