I just finished McCalls 5433, which is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern. This is a classic fit shirt/blouse. It does not have any yokes, but it does have 4 darts in front and two in the back for fitting. I followed the P/P guide sheet for all of the fitting and made plenty of adjustments/alterations.
As you can see here, I needed to add 1.5" in the FBA to get the cf of the pattern meet my cf. After doing the FBA, you re-mark the bust point so you know how to angle the dart. I need to be a little more careful with my tissue fitting. I thought I needed to lower the dart after I did the FBA and did by one inch. After stitching the dart and pin fitting, I realized I needed to raise it back up. I moved the bust point of the dart up and inch and just angled it up. On the pattern, I cut out the dart and moved the whole thing back up where it started.
Now that I think I have all the fit issues taken care of, I want to make it again and see how it turns out. These are the alterations I made:
-narrow upper back
-High round back - on this pattern I don't think I needed it, so I will try it without next time
-widened at the hips
My poor pattern piece is so cut up and taped up. I will probably copy it onto other pattern material now that I think I have all the adjustments on it.
All in all, I'm pretty happy with this blouse. Now I will have to make some pants to go with it!
Thursday, July 02, 2009
Posted by Nancy Winningham at 8:23 PM