Tuesday, March 14, 2017

Spring 6 Pac

It's time to start sewing for spring, and this means I need to have a plan.  I've decided to follow the guidelines on the SG site for the Spring 6 pac.  Here is the outline:

  • one jacket or cardigan in a neutral colour
  • a second jacket or cardigan in a second neutral or a colour
  • a skirt or pants in the same neutral as 1
  • a skirt or pants in a second neutral
  • a top in a print mixing neutrals or neutral and colour
  • a top in a neutral or your colour
I've decided to use olive and a copper/mocha/tan for the neutral color (both are kinda neutral)  I'll have to draw up a plan later, but yesterday I decided to start with the Loes Hinse Oxford pants. Years ago these were one of my favorites, so I decided to resurrect the pattern.  I'm using a burgundy and gold herringbone, which looks copperish blended together.

I love the way the pockets are constructed on these pants.
























The legs are constructed by sewing the side seams first and then top stitching them (kind of like jeans.)  Then you sew the inseam and put the pants together.  All I have left to do tonight is to put in the elastic and hem them.  Of course, I think I will have to cut about 4 inches off the bottom before I do.  The pants are long enough to cuff, but this rayon fabric has been "growing" and will hang overnight before I put in the final hem.

Sunday, March 12, 2017

Hot Patterns Gypsophelia top

Yesterday Hot Patterns hosted the event "Sew Something Saturday."  Even though I didn't have any HP patterns in my near-future-line up, I decided to participate.  I looked through my pattern collection and decided to go with the Gypsophelia, which is a free download at Fabric.com.  The pattern calls for 2 yards of 60" fabric, but I was able to make it work with 1.5 yards and I think mine was only about 55 inches wide.  I wasn't able to match the pattern, but since this is an uneven pattern, I'm not sure I could have matched it without using double the amount of fabric - and I'm too frugal for that!  I used a rayon challis, which seems to be my favorite fabric to wear these days.

I love the look of this top on the drawing, but it does not look the same on me.  There is too much excess fabric around the middle, the sleeves do not hang the same way, and the keyhole is much smaller than shown (even though I cut my keyhole the next size bigger than the size for my pattern. )  I cut a 10 in the shoulders, and graded out to a 12 at the bust and hip.  I did no other alterations.





The keyhole with binding was easy to execute, but if I make this again, I would consider using self-fabric for the binding.  Prepackaged binding is usually stiff and not as pliable as I would like it to be.
The sleeves are also gathered and finished with binding.  I am going to cut my binding off and re-do the bottom of the sleeves.  I like the treatment, but although I used the measurements as given, mine are too big and fall down below the elbow.  If I have some black FOE, I will use that to finish the sleeves.  I am also going to re-do the hem because I did a lousy job at 10:00 last night and I know parts of it will come undone and fray.
As far as I'm concerned, the jury is still out on the dolman/kimono sleeves.  I'm just not sure if I like them or that they are flattering.  I did wear the blouse to church this morning and got several compliments on it, so maybe I'm over-thinking it.  I do think it is quite comfortable, and definitely fits a need in my wardrobe!  I felt like a big sack in this top (I wore it with a skirt) and so I belted it.  I like it better with the belt, but for casual wear, I'd like to not have to deal with the belt.  There are princess type seams in the front and back so I may play with bringing them in at the waist or else adding an elastic casing inside.  But for now, I'm wearing it as is!


Sunday, March 05, 2017

Tobin James Dress

It's raining and drizzly outside, and I have another hour until I need to leave for Sunday School.  I realized I have not written on my blog since before my trip, so it's about time!  I will be catching up with Uganda pictures, but that will be another day.  Today I bring you my Tobin James Dress!

This is the Etra Pattern from Tina Givens.  I don't usually make something in exactly the same colors as the envelope, but this time I was falling in love with that mustard linen.  When I saw the similar color at Joanns several months ago, I had to get it.  I decided to use an eggplant color (actually more of a dark red violet) for the trim.  So in that respect, I guess I did not use EXACTLY the same colors.

TG patterns usually leave a lot to be desired in the drafting department, but this one had no problems.  Well, I say no problems if you don't count the bottom trim.  Since the sides of the dress end at an angle, it's better if you cut the joining part of your strips at an angle as well.  Of course, if you don't, it gives you a different look, which might be your preference.

The one thing I always change in TG patterns is the pocket. I don't like her pocket shape since the top of the pocket seems to flap over.  If you are stitching the pocket to the front fabric as a design feature, then this shape of pocket will work, otherwise, I trim off the top "hump" of the pocket.

When I first saw the picture for this dress, I thought the black part was an underskirt or separate layer.  It is just trim sewn on, so the picture is a bit deceiving.  Also, the picture looks like it has an asymmetrical hem, but in reality, the hem is straight.  There are strings on the inside so that you can draw up one or both sides to get a different look.  Maybe that is what they have done here.

I'm calling this my Tobin James dress because I got this little sun emblem last year when we visited Tobin James Winery.  It is their logo.  When I decided to make this dress, I knew I had to incorporate it somehow.  I love how this design feature turned out.









I really like how comfortable this dress is and the sleeves really do fit well.  I often have trouble with sleeves being either too tight. or too loose at the lower arm.  These fit the way I like.  The neckline was too low and I raised it about an inch or maybe more.  I will raise it even more next time.  This fabric is medium to heavier weight linen, so I think I will use a lighter weight linen next time.  It is a lot of fabric.



On this pattern I cut a small at the shoulders and drew the underarm seam out to a medium.  I made no other fit adjustments.   I did try to add a dart, but I did not leave enough room for the dart leg, so I ended up easing in an extra inch of length in the front.  I'm not sure if it is needed, but next time I will try for the dart.











In addition to raising the neckline, I thought the neckline was too plain, and the gold, even though it is in my color pallet,  looked too blah against my skin. As an afterthought, I added a bias binding inside the neckline.  The inside edge is stitched, but raw.

I used the same finish on the hem strip.



















Here is the dress with the ties done up on the sides.




I'm wearing this dress to church today, but when one of our friends came to pick up DH this morning, he commented "nice nightgown."  Hmmm...