I just finished McCalls 5433, which is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern. This is a classic fit shirt/blouse. It does not have any yokes, but it does have 4 darts in front and two in the back for fitting. I followed the P/P guide sheet for all of the fitting and made plenty of adjustments/alterations. As you can see here, I needed to add 1.5" in the FBA to get the cf of the pattern meet my cf. After doing the FBA, you re-mark the bust point so you know how to angle the dart. I need to be a little more careful with my tissue fitting. I thought I needed to lower the dart after I did the FBA and did by one inch. After stitching the dart and pin fitting, I realized I needed to raise it back up. I moved the bust point of the dart up and inch and just angled it up. On the pattern, I cut out the dart and moved the whole thing back up where it started.
Now that I think I have all the fit issues taken care of, I want to make it again and see how it turns out. These are the alterations I made:
-FBA
-narrow upper back
-High round back - on this pattern I don't think I needed it, so I will try it without next time
-sway back
-forward shoulder
-narrow shoulder
-widened at the hips
My poor pattern piece is so cut up and taped up. I will probably copy it onto other pattern material now that I think I have all the adjustments on it.
All in all, I'm pretty happy with this blouse. Now I will have to make some pants to go with it!
Showing posts with label tissue fit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tissue fit. Show all posts
Thursday, July 02, 2009
"The Perfect Shirt"
Posted by Nancy Winningham at 8:23 PM 14 comments
Labels: blouse fitting FFRP muslin tissue fit mini wardrobe, linen, M5433, tissue fit
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