Today I made TWO new tops. This pattern was quick and easy and I love it. It is the sleeveless top from Pamela's Patterns Versatile Twinset. The first one I made from a cotton knit that did not have much stretch. Whenever I make tops, I always have the problem of them being too full above the bust. It seems like I need to dart the neckline. So, that's exactly what I did - but to the pattern, not the top.
I took a little dart at the neckline, and then cut a slit from the armhole toward the dart until the pattern lay flat again. This is like rotating a dart, but what it actually did was bring the shoulder seam up and in closer to the center front. This alteration increased the armhole a bit, so I reduced it at the shoulder seam by the same amount. You can also see where I drew the purple line. I cut it there to lower the neckline just a bit. After I did this alteration, of course I had to try it out. I found this great slinky knit that I had purchased in Mazatlan a couple of years ago that I have been afraid of since I bought it! I have always heard how hard slinky is to work with, but for this simple little top, I really had no problems at all.
Here you can see the neckline of the first top and how it gapped a bit.
Here is the second neckline, lying much more smoothly.
Of course, the slinky fabric will lie better anyway, but I think the alteration is going to make this top a favorite TNT!
Back to the Pamela's Pattern. I LOVE this pattern. I had to make ABSOLUTELY NO FIT ALTERATIONS - NONE! ZIPPO! (OK, the neckline thing, but that's different. Usually I have to:
cut narrower in the shoulder
Wider at the hips
Do a FBA
Add A dart
Do a Forward shoulder adjustment
I did not have to do any of this. I bought this pattern because I had seen one Anne had made on the Gorgeous Things blog a while ago. I liked the little bolero pattern, so I bought it. Then I found this on the Pamela's Pattern website today:
Here are just a few things that make Pamela's Patterns different from commercial patterns:
Commercial Patterns: Shoulder seam sits too far back on the shoulder
Pamela's Patterns: A forward shoulder is built into the pattern
Commercial Patterns: Shoulder seam extends too far past the shoulder
Pamela's Patterns: Shoulder seam is smaller to give a more realistic fit
Commercial Patterns: Back neckline is not high enough, causing shirts to "fall" back
Pamela's Patterns: A high round back is incorporated to keep the shirt where it should be
Commercial Patterns: Armholes are too long, creating a pucker in the armhole area
Pamela's Patterns: The option to petite the shirt and armhole area
Commercial Patterns: Garment pulls across the bust
Pamela's Patterns: Choose from two fronts - darted and undarted for a smooth finish no matter what your cup size!
Commercial Patterns: Too much fabric in the waist area
Pamela's Patterns: Built -in "essence of waist"
Commercial Patterns: Too tight though the hips
Pamela's Patterns: More generous in the hip area
Commercial Patterns: Sizing never seems to be right
Pamela's Patterns: More realistic sizing
I would have to say that all of the above is true for me. Now I guess I'm going to have to go back to her website and consider buying another pattern!
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