Encue Creations

SWAP update

2012-01-19T19:09:00.000-08:00

Well, I wish there were more to update, but there isn't much.

I have finished 3 things for the swap. First of all, the "Dana's Top" by Silhouette patterns. This turned out well despite the fact that my fabric did not have enough stretch. I will probably make this one again.

Next, I finished the e-shrug by Sewing Workshop. I made the longer version, and added long sleeves. Still not sure if I like the longer sleeves, but it is nice and warm with the longer sleeves. I used a wool knit and it really is nice.

Last, but not least, I finished the funnel top by Christine Jonson patterns. This is super quick and easy, UNLESS you cut the neck too small and then the darn thing won't go over your head! I can't believe it. So, since I made this whole thing on the serger and only used the regular machine to hem the bottom and do the fold-over stitching on the neck, I think I was not careful enough with the width of my seam allowances on the neck. My serger is over 20 years old, so the seam gauge part is not easy to follow. I did pick out the straight stitch on the neck and restitch it. It is now able to go over my head, but not very easily. One of these day's I'll probably rip the poor thing. I do like the top though, and will definitely make this again.

Now that I can finally get the top over my head, I can see that it is too tight just about everywhere else. I did use the guide sheet for knits included to determine what size I needed, but I think I really need to do a FBA. Unfortunately, this will mean cutting the pattern out flat, since as is, the pattern front and back are exactly the same and you cut them both out as one. I will just need to make 1/2 patterns and fold the fabric with 2 folds to get a different front and back. As is, it can stand as a layering piece, but it is a little too tight and sheer to wear as a stand alone. AS it is, I had to wear a cami underneath so that my bra didn't stand out like neon lights!

What's next up? Well, tonight next up is grading some papers and watching American Idol! But, hopefully this weekend I will get to do some sewing. I really should cut out the coat and make that since the weather is getting colder. Not sure why I keep putting it off. I think it's because I don't like my fabric. I like the look and the color, but it is pretty heavy and unfortunately, scratchy. I will need to figure out a different fabric for the collar since I don't think I would want that scratchy wool against my neck. I already have one coat with a fur-like collar, so I'll have to think of something else.

SWAP 2012

2011-12-31T05:21:00.001-08:00

The SWAP (Sewing With a Plan) has begun over on Stitcher's Guild, and I'm in. The emphasis for this year's swap is to make garments that are well-fitted and will become TNT (Tried and True) patterns. 2 garments can be previously sewn, and here are the basic rules:
Choose any seven garments from this list:

Button Down Shirt w/Collar
Blouse or shirt (collar is optional)
T-Shirt
Vest
Overshirt
Dress
Jeans
Trousers
Shorts or Capri Pants
Skirt
Jacket (jean jacket, windbreaker, hoodie, etc.)
Coat (suit or sport coat)
Overcoat or Raincoat
Bathing Suit & Coverup

From those seven, choose four to make twice for a total of 11 garments that will work together. Those four may either be repeated garments from the same pattern, or one each from two different patterns.

You can see the complete rules here.

I think I've only actually completed one swap, although I have attempted a few. I'm hoping to "make it work" this year. I did not do 2 of the garments ahead of time, so that means I need to really get busy. I did make a "practice pair" of the pants and the Licorice dress. I have also made the coat before, but it is much too big now. I think it was a little too big when I made it the first time! Wow, I just looked back through the blog to find the picture of the coat and realized that it's been 5 years since I made that coat. I guess it is time to replace it. The new one will be a plain taupe colored wool. However, I LOVE the fabric of my gray coat and wish there were some way to salvage it. I guess I could take the whole thing apart and try to recut it. That would probably all work fine except for the buttonholes will make it tricky to recut the coat. And, I don't know that I'd ever be able to match up the pattern again either.

Well, for this year, this is what I'm planning..

The Burda jacket I also made years ago. I'm thinking about taking the Classic French Jacket class at Pattern Review. The class is $53.00 for memebers. One of my early Christmas presents was the Threads archive DVD set, so I may just follow the instructions in the past issues of threads on how to make a Chanel jacket. I haven't decided yet, but need to since the class starts on Jan 5th.

New Year's Top

2011-12-30T20:26:00.000-08:00

Let's hope. I traced the pattern and am ready to cut out. I want to finish this top to wear tomorrow night.
I've had this beautiful stretch velvet in my stash for a couple of year and never knew what to make of it. It is so pretty. The glitter parts are a copper color. The velvet is a deep black. I have no idea what it is made of and am not even going to prewash it!
I'm using the Silhouette's Pattern "Dana's Top" to do this one. I was surprised when tracing the pattern to find out that the sleeves are 2 piece. Well, they are two piece, but both pieces are identical. I may see if I can line these up with a fold and cut them as one, since I don't see the advantage of the 2 piece sleeve if they are identical. Let me know if I'm missing something here.
You can see there are some vertical and horizontal lines on the fabric, but they don't line up or continue all the way across the fabric. Sometimes they just stop and other lines are in different places. I'm not sure if I'm going to try to line anything up at all.
Wish me luck!

Little Shoes and a great iron cleaner

2011-12-30T15:56:00.000-08:00

I was supposed to make my black pants yesterday, and although they are cut and ready to go, I had to make these instead.

They are just so cute, I couldn't resist.

I got the pattern from the Etsy shop called Little Shoes. There were so many cute patterns, I did the special and bought 3 for $10.00, so you can expect to see some more of these coming up soon! I can see where I need to adjust my sewing for next time, but for a first attempt at baby shoe making, not bad!

Now, for the tip of the day. My iron gets gunked up easily because in addition to my sewing, my daughter starches her work shirts every day and the starch builds up quickly on the iron. I have used a variety of different methods to try to keep my iron clean, but it seems that the best I had tried so far (until now) was the Rowenta iron cleaner. Although convenient, it is very expensive - even with a 40% of coupon. So, I decided to Google and You Tube a "clean iron" search. I tried a few different things, but the absolute best (and easiest) is this. I also have used this method on both hot or cold iron and it works great!

I put a little baking soda in a small container and keep it in my sewing room. I also bought a small bottle of white vinegar that is kept just for the sewing room. Dip an old towel in the vinegar and then in the baking soda. Rub it gently over the iron and all the gunk will come off like magic! You may need to do this a few times or rub a little harder on any stubborn spots. This is MUCH cheaper than commercial cleaners, does not involve any chemicals, is easy to use, and works BETTER than the commercial cleaners. Give it a try!

Colette Clover Pants

2011-12-27T20:31:00.000-08:00

So, what is all the buzz about Colette Patterns? If you haven't tried them, I will give you an inside peek. In addition to the Colette Sewing Handbook that I talked about earlier, I also ordered 2 patterns. The Clover Pants and the Jasmine Blouse (both shown in this picture.)

Now, I don't have lovely legs like the model, but I do have to say that these pants fit me better straight out of the envelope than RTW. I made a straight size 6 with NO adjustments and got a great result. Now, this picture was taken after wearing them for several hours and going out to eat, but still... I can see that I have a little tweaking to do for the next pair, which I intend to cut out tomorrow!.

The pattern comes in a cute little booklet/folder. The instructions are very clear and separated into sections. For things that are not completely illustrated in the pattern, like how to install an invisible zipper, it refers you to a website tutorial. Of course, all of these techniques are also covered in the Colette Sewing Handbook.
You can order directly from Colette patterns, but if you are a PR member, you can order with a discount from PR, which is what I did! The only thing I don't like is that there is not a photo of the finished garment included with the pattern. I suppose you could print one from the internet easily enough, though.

I guess what I like the most about this pattern, other than the great fit, is that it was super easy to sew. (It would have been quick and easy, except that I sewed all 4 of the pocket pieces to the wrong side of the pants and waistband instead of the right side. So, I had to rip all of those out and do that over.) I like the wide yoke/waistband, and the side zipper. This pants pattern also has 2 cute little pockets that are hidden beneath the waistband.

Lately I've been into some narrower leg pants, although DD keeps telling me to quit wearing them! Granted, these are not the best camera shots, but I'm thrilled that I finally went out tonight and replaced the tripod that I've been missing so much since we got burglarized a few months ago. Now I can finally take pictures again and not have to wait until someone is here to do it!

I wanted to make a muslin for these pants, but did not have any "throw away" fabric that had stretch. So, instead, I checked the measurements and cut the pattern a size 6 which matched my measurements pretty closely. Then, I basted all the pieces together except facing and pockets, to check the fit. I tore out all the basting and then sewed them with a regular stitch. The patterns have 5/8 inch seam allowances, so I figured if I needed to add or subtract, I would be OK. Oh, BTW, the pattern says you need 2.25 yards of 60" fabric. Mine was only 52" wide, and I got by with less than 1-5/8 yard in my size. SOOO if you are buying fabric specifically for these pants, lay out the pattern pieces and see how much you really need.

I can see that on my next pair I will need to lengthen the back crotch seam by about 3/4" and perhaps decrease the inseam length to get rid of some of those under-butt wrinkles!

Oh, and when am I ever going to learn not to take my picture when I have a headache? Kinda scary!

Licorice version 1 finished!

2011-12-23T14:48:00.000-08:00

And here it is! I've been wearing this dress all day today, and I have to say, "I love it!" I think next time I will probably make it 2" longer so I can wear it to work.

More pictures here

Almost done with Licorice

2011-12-22T21:13:00.000-08:00

The Licorice Dress has taken more time than expected, but much of that was due to unforeseeable events that have nothing to do with sewing. Of course, it did take a little tweaking to work out the fit on this one. According to my measurements, I would take a straight 6 in Collette patterns. Exactly. Well, I should have known better. The upper chest was way to big and the shoulders were dropping off of mine. I should have made a smaller upper bodice and then done a FBA. But it's oh-so-tempting when your measurements seem to line up exactly! Hopefully the alterations I made to the pattern will work so that I can make the next version of this dress. ( Sorry, I think I'm repeating whatever I put in my last post!... I must be tired.)

Yesterday was supposed to be a sewing day, but my plans got derailed by one crisis (and I'm speaking literally here) after another. But, at day's end, the distant family member got her car, the emergency counseling appointment was made and attended, and the dog made it out of the vets without having to have x-rays (but still incurred a $72.00 bill!) None of these things were in MY plans for the day, but the Good Lord knew what was coming and it all worked out for His glory (although I'm not sure how the dog fight fit into the plan!)

Today, however, I did have a productive day. After meeting my trainer at the gym this morning, and running a few errands, I did get to spend some time sewing. As you can see in the picture above, I added some pleats to the front of the collar. There are pleats already at the shoulder seams, but I didn't like the way the collar laid in the pictures I've seen, so I thought I would try it. It's kind of subtle, but I like it.

The collar was actually pretty fiddly. You have to put pleats on both ends of 6 different pieces! That's 12 pleats for one little collar! Then of course, I added two more to the front!

The dress is lined, so that takes some extra time as well. This pattern has horizontal and vertical darts in the front, and vertical darts in the back. I had to lower the front darts about 1". Apparently Colette patterns are not designed for 50-something breasts!

I like the way they use bias tape to create the casing for the elastic in the sleeve.

The dress is lined, but the sleeves are not. This leaves you with a raw edge at the armscye on the inside. I decided to serge together the seam allowances.

All I have left to do on this dress is to finish the tie belt and sew on the hook and eye at the top of the neck. I hope to get pictures tomorrow. I was going to wear it to take my son out to dinner tomorrow night for his birthday. He found out today that he did poorly on one of his finals, and now he doesn't even want us to come up to see him. He works so hard to get good grades that he gets really discouraged when he doesn't do as well as he'd hoped. I hope he'll change his mind tomorrow.

It's Licorice Time

2011-12-20T20:36:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I thought I would trace out some patterns that I'm planning for the SWAP. Ever since I moved out of my sewing room, I've been using the dining room table for cutting. Well, it IS getting close to Christmas, so I guess I need to get that cleaned off!

After I traced out the coat pattern from FSG, I decided to trace the Licorice dress pattern from the new Colette sewing handbook. (I know, I know. I said I was going to make the coat in the BSSH, and I am still drooling over it. Unfortunately, it requires light weight wool, and the wool I'm planning on using for a coat for winter is heavy weight coating. I don't think it will work well with the BSSH coat. I guess I'm saving that one for a spring coat.) ANYWAY, I decided I needed to make a muslin for the licorice dress since I have never worked with Colette patterns before. Well, my muslin is turning out pretty well, so I'm turning it into a real dress.

According to the measurements, I should be cutting a 6, which I did. It fit's great except that it is too big in the upper chest. I probably should have cut a 4 and done a FBA. The Colette patterns are drafted for a C cup, but that's still 3 sizes off of where I need to be! SOOO, I ended up taking a giant dart (which just looks like a CF seam) from the neck to the waist in the front of the dress. This is working out fine for now. I did not do the exact same alteration on the pattern piece, because I do not want a dart down the CF of my dress! I'm taking off 1/2" down the CF to the waist and then slicing the pattern at the waist so that the whole front will lie against the fold line. I then added back some fullness to the skirt. I hope this will work on my next version, which I intend to make out of wine wool crepe. My "test" dress is a poly charmeuse, but I like how it is turning out. I have some pink ambiance in my stash, so I am using that to line it.

BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook

2011-12-14T20:10:00.000-08:00

Last week (or maybe the week before) I went on sort of a sewing shopping spree. I bought the Colette Sewing book, the Threads Archive DVD set, a few patterns, and the BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook. I wasn't sure what I was expecting, and I almost didn't buy it, but then decided to. I'm really glad I did! I've been reading this book every evening since I got it. This book does have a lot of information for beginning sewers, but what I really like is that it has patterns included.

There are 5 patterns:

skirt
blouse
dress
coat
bag

Each pattern comes with step by step detailed instructions to make 3 different versions from the same pattern. These versions are different enough that it will involve things like cutting and changing the pattern, creating different necklines, changing darts/gathers, etc. So, it's not just like adding a sleeve or making it sleeveless. The also show additional variations, but do not give instructions for those :-(

The styles are cute and up to date. The directions seem very clear, although I have not tried to follow them. Already I know I am going to make the main blouse version and a version of the coat.

Better fitting Biarritz

2011-12-11T14:14:00.000-08:00

I was not happy with the jacket I made, so it was either scrap it or fix it. I decided to fix it. I took in each of the side seams 3/8", took a 1/2" tuck (total 1") at the center back, and narrowed the sleeves by 3/8" each. These seemingly simple changes involved a lot of work. I had to

remove, alter, and replace part of the collar
remove the lower half of the sleeves from the armsye
take in the shoulder and all of armscye by 3/8 inch
take tuck at center back
re hem sleeves and bottom of the jacket.

Of course, all of the seams around the collar were stitched, under stitched, served and top stitched. This was A LOT of stitching removed. I also cut my fabric by mistake in a couple of places. This was the wrong fabric to have to do all that to! Anyway, I'm glad it's done because I am in desperate need of clothes right now.

After shopping for pants and tops the last couple of days and buying nothing, it reinforced why I sew!!! If pants fit me in the legs, they are too big in the waist. If the top fit's in the bust, the shoulders are falling off. I guess I better quit shopping and get back to more sewing!

Speaking of which, I finally finished the Hot Patterns Scarf shirt. I had worked on it a few weeks ago and then lost a piece. Never did find it. I ended up cutting up the scarf to remake the front, but then didn't know what to do with the scarf. Now my scarf shirt has a contrast scarf and cuffs, and I really like it!

I'm Jumping on that Bandwagon

2011-12-07T21:48:00.001-08:00

Well, it seems that Colette patterns are all the rage right now, and I can see why. The styles are hip with a vintage vibe to them. The garments are "pretty" and feminine. I finally broke down and ordered the Collette Sewing Handbook and the BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook.

I've just started reading the Collette book, and want to make everything in it! It really is directed to new sewists, but there is still plenty of good information and reminders for those of us who are not so new to sewing.

So, one of the things the author Sarai talks about is going into your closet and pulling out the things you love to better determine your sense of style. Well, that was kind of a disappointment for me as I looked in my closet and really could only pull out a couple of things (none that I'd made) that I really liked, let alone loved. What happened to all of the things I loved? Has my style changed that much? Have I given away all of my clothes? Have I been looking frumpy? I'm not sure, but I know I need to do something about it!!! Right now I know I need to make a LOT of new things because I've lost 15 pounds and none of my clothes are fitting. I think I want to be careful to try to really make things I think I will love rather than just things that would be quick to make. I'm giving myself permission to buy some things to get me through this transition time. I need to deliberately make things that will go together and coordinate with other things so I don't have to hunt around for "the one pair of pants that works with that blouse," or grab the dress that doesn't have any shoes that work with it that I can wear all day long.

Along that note, I finished a LH Biarritz jacket the other day. The only pictures I have are terrible and the jacket isn't even closed correctly on me! Yep, that's how I look and feel at the end of the day!

But, the truth is, the jacket just turned out too big. Normally a small in LH patterns fits me, so even though I haven't lost that much weight on the top half of my body, this still turned out too big. I think part of the problem is that the fabric is a knit, so I should have gone down a size for that reason alone. My daughter keeps telling me that the problem is that the style is too outdated and made for old ladies. I keep telling her that I AM an old lady!

6Pak

2011-11-30T20:14:00.001-08:00

They are doing a winter 6Pac at Stitcher's guild and I think I'm in. I need new clothes because everything is too big on me now. The six pac suggestion is:

1 - winter coat or heavy jacket in a dark neutral
2 - overlayer top, jacket or cardigan in a neutral
3 - overlayer top, jacket or cardigan in a colour
4 - underlayer top in neutral
5 - underlayer top in colour
6 - trousers in neutral
(7) - if you like to live dangerously in winter, or live somewhere not very cold, an optional skirt in neutral

I've already made the pants, so now I'm working on a LH Biarritz jacket. As far as I can tell, this is not much different from the Garbo or Textile Studios Capris jacket. Well, there is an inset collar, which is different. And there are narrow darts in the front, but other than that, not too much different in the overall look. When I was in LH's shop in Carmel last year, she had several of these made up in a beautiful olive-colored knit which I loved. As it turned out, Casual Elegance had this same fabric on their website (She carries most of Loes' fabrics) Of course, I ordered some, and I got the end of the bolt. Well, this fabric is really making me mad! I didn't look at it carefully enough when I received it or I probably would have sent it back! (another reason NOT to let fabric languish in the stash for so long.) It has excessive pilling all over it..

Now Sharon, the owner of CE Fabrics, did tell me that she gave me some extra fabric because my piece had more "slubs" than most. But I don't call this slubbing - it is pilling. I've been picking off these fuzz balls for days. What I'm most worried about, though, is that the fabric will pill like crazy when I wear it. Let me tell you, the fabric at CE is not inexpensive. It's not terribly expensive, but it certainly isn't like buying at Fabric.com, or Fabric mart - so I would expect better quality. I'm hoping that if I ever get rid of all these little fuzzes, that they will stay gone for good!

New Pants - Sally

2011-11-26T14:31:00.000-08:00

These are the Sally Pants by Silhouette patterns. I would have NEVER chosen these pants by the envelope. Just look:

After viewing Peggy Sagers webcast on pants fitting, I knew I wanted to try these since they are her basic sloper for all of the pants patterns. I still have some tweaking to do in the back, but overall, these fit well and are comfortable. They are made of a wool blend I got some time ago, so I'm not sure of the fabric content. I did prewash the fabric in the washing machine and throw it in the dryer and it came out fine. I will probably hang them to dry from now on though just incase.

I started off with too big a size, so I've made so many alterations to these I'm not sure what size they really are. I suppose I should put my traced pattern back on the original pattern and compare and adjust. Just for kicks. But not today.

The fly application on this pattern was easy to do and has a nice finish. I like a two piece fly. Even though it takes a little more time, I like the way it turns out. There are no pockets in these pants, but I didn't want any. I don't need to add any fullness to the hip area!

After making these, I'd have to say that the Sally Pant is really a great pants pattern. The fit is good and all of the pattern pieces line up nicely. Peggy Sager is great about helping you with fit questions. I know there are some pattern designers like Nancy Erickson who are now charging quite a bit for this service.

I have several other Silhouette Patterns that I would like to try and am hoping that I can get more sewing done now.

I also like the way the waistband is just assembled, turned under at the seam allowance and top-stitched on to the top of the pants. This works well, looks nice, and saves time.

Scarf blouse update: I am always drawn to Hot Patterns because they have such cute styles. Hwever, I don't think I've made a single one of their patterns that I did not have issues with! The fabric I'm using is a bear, so just to be sure the problems weren't from the fabric, I pulled out the pattern to check. I was having a terrible time trying to get the front dart to line up correctly. Well, after folding the paper pattern, I can see why. It's not laid out right.

So, I had two choices since I'd already cut the fabric. Either 1) lower the bust dart point considerably to make it work (not such a great idea) or 2) make a smaller dart. Since this is a loose fitting pattern, and other's have said it comes out big, I figured making a smaller dart wouldn't be to much of a problem. I re-folded the dart from the point to the bottom line and redrew the top line. This worked much better.

Now the problem is that I have somehow lost one of my front pieces and cannot finish the blouse until I find it!!!

Hot Patterns Scarf- shirt

2011-11-25T22:18:00.000-08:00

Today I finished a pair of wool pants (pictures tomorrow I hope) that I've been working on for a while.

Several months ago I fell in love with the Hot Pattern scarf shirt pattern. I bought 2 different fabrics to make it in, but then never made it! In fact, one of the fabrics ended up being something else. Well, I wanted to make a new blouse to go with the pants that I just finished, so I dug in my fabric closet to see if the other fabric I'd bought for the scarf top would work. Yes! It is a polyester chiffon, so it will be tricky to work with. The pattern has a layout that has you use the fabric in one layer. I don't like cutting out like this because not only does it take longer, I don't have a table wide enough to cut out 60" wide fabric in one layer. The fabric was difficult to keep straight, but fortunately the print has lines in it that helped me keep it somewhat on grain! All I got done on that today was cutting, fusing, and hemming the scarf. I'm hoping to put the rest of it together tomorrow.

They're starting the SWAP over at Stitcher's Guild again this year. I like the guidelines this year as the focus seems to be on developing TNT patterns. That's exactly what I need to do more of. So, I may join. Also, 2 garments can be made ahead of time, So I may even include this blouse and pants depending on what my overall plan ends up looking like. I know one thing for sure, I will be using all fabric from my stash. It's pretty bad when you can't even buy new fabric because there is no where to put it!!

OK< it looks like blogger may have changed their posting again. I used to be able to size patterns by grabbing a corner and making them larger or smaller. Now that doesn't work. Anyone else out there using blogger that knows how to fix this?

Black Friday =Sewing Day

2011-11-25T09:23:00.000-08:00

Well, I haven't been doing much sewing, and since I didn't have a camera for so long, I haven't made any posts lately.

We've had a new addition to our family, little Emma was born October 19. Since then, we've had a lot of changes at home, but all of them good.

The only sad (sort of ) thing is that I lost my sewing room. THis was my choice, so I'm not complaining. We have an extra bedroom, which I have been using as a sewing room and have loved it. We also have a very small office off of our bedroom that has a twin size bed in it. The problem with that is that you don't want someone else sleeping in your bedroom! So, since Emma's father stays over quite frequently (which we love), I felt sorry for him sleeping on the sofa every night. The sofa is NOT comfortable. So, I decided to give up the sewing room so we could move the bed into that room. My little office will suffice for now, but I won't be able to do any cutting in there, my fabric will still have to be stored in the now "guest room" and I still have a LOT of cleaning to do in the new sewing room.

But not today! I cleaned and cooked for the last 2 days, so today i s sewing day. I am going to the gym in about 1/2 hour, and making ONE stop at Macy's to buy ONE thing, and then I'm home to sew. Hope to have some pics later.

I hope you all had a WONDERFUL Thanksgiving.

I've been meaning to...

2011-08-27T16:27:00.000-07:00

clean out my bathroom cabinets,
organize my dresser drawers,
sort out my itunes collection
get some prints from my pictures on my computer,

and so much more....
but now, I'm either forced to or don't have the opportunity to any more. We were robbed this week (or maybe I should say burglarized) They broke in in the middle of the day Wednesday coming in through the sliding glass door in the back yard, which was apparently unlocked. They took my laptop and my daughters, both of our cameras, my grandmother's mink capelet, DHs wedding ring, and lots of other jewelry including DD's diamond bracelet that she just got from her father, among other things. Now that we're over the shock, we're counting our blessings. No one was hurt, not even the animals. Nothing was broken or damaged, they only hit half of the house, and our house was not set on fire (like someone else's misfortune we heard about this week.) So, it could have been much worse.

However, it's still a big pain to clean up all the mess (everything pulled out of dressers and cabinets), and the loss of everything including pictures of my late dad on my computer. So, since I don't have a camera or computer right now, it will be awhile until I post anything on my blog.

I did finish a simple tank out of a brown rayon jersey knit and I really like it. I used Pamela's Patterns twinset. Be Careful if you make this pattern - it has 1/4 inch seam allowances.

CJ A line Skirt

2011-08-21T21:03:00.000-07:00

I finally sewed the first true piece for my 6PAK. It is the A-Line Skirt in the Bell Sleeve Wrap pattern by Christine Johnson. The pattern is designed for a knit, but I used a woven. There is a sheet inside of all of her patterns that lets you know what size to make based on the stretch of the knit. I just calculated it with a zero percent stretch to figure what size to make. I'm very happy with the fit, but because I lined it, I have to either put it on over my head or lose 5 pounds!! The fabric is something that I've had in my stash for ever, so I'm not sure where I got it. I'm thinking maybe a fabric mart bundle from a few years ago! I'm pretty sure it's a poly woven, but it has a very nice drape and is lightweight. Because of this, I decided to line it. I had some brown poly lining in my stash, so used that. I serged the elastic to the top and turned it under. It would have been nice if I had black elastic, but I didn't.

The last blouse I made was a little full above the bust. I contacted Peggy Sagers and she replied right away. She said to try cutting a size one in the shoulders, 2 in the bust, and 3 at the hips. I am going to do this probably next because I would like to use this pattern for my 6 pack. I have another basic blouse that I made several years ago and have worn that thing to death. I really like the Silhouettes blouse, so I think I will be making several.

I really wanted to get more sewing and cutting done this weekend, but ended up working all day Saturday in my classroom. After I got home, DH and I ran some errands and went out to eat. After that, I fell asleep at about 6pm!! We were at church all morning today, but I did get to at least make this skirt this afternoon. It was really quick and easy. I'll definitely be making this one again.

My Newest Obsession

2011-08-17T21:40:00.000-07:00

Lately I have been obsessed by Peggy Sagers and Silhouette Patterns. I have been watching the live webcasts and even the reruns that are on her site. I have ordered several patterns, and tonight I finished this version of the classic blouse. There were several things about this pattern that I really like.

First of all, all of PS's patterns use 3/8" seams. I like this because it eliminates the step of trimming the seams. It also makes it easier to fit curves and smaller corners. The instructions are very simple, but there is the assumption that you know how to sew. For example, on the blouse it just says to add buttons and buttonholes. They are marked on the pattern, but that's about it.

The most interesting thing is the way the collar and the front facing are done. The front facing is folded over to the front, and that is what creates the front band. The collar is assembled first, and then the seam allowances on the neck edge are pressed inward. Then, after the blouse shoulders are sewn, the collar is just slipped over the raw edge of the neck and top stitched on. This is the fastest, easiest way to make a collar I have ever done. This pattern has a one piece collar, but you could do the same thing with a two piece collar. Also, I used Peggy's method of turning under the seam allowances at the point and not clipping the corner. You can click on the picture to see more detail of how nicely it turned out. I made the short sleeves for this blouse, but next time I would like to change that to a cap sleeve. I will also (at some point) make the longer sleeve.

I used a size 2 with the D cup. The one thing I always have a problem with in blouses is too much fabric between the bust and the shoulder. When I am standing up, the bust darts are in the right place. I did lower the shoulder seam 1/4 inch front and back, which eliminated a bit of the problem. I feel like the shoulder seam is in the right place, although I may bring it in 1/4 " on my next attempt. I'm wondering if maybe I should have cut a size 1 and just made it bigger at the hips, although it seems to fit fine in the bust.

I would have to say that this blouse fits better than any other that I have tried with the least amount of adjustment. I love that the pattern pieces are marked by cup size so that I do not have to fiddle with a FBA. I can't wait to make this again and to try some of her other patterns.

The 6PAC

2011-08-01T19:50:00.000-07:00

There is a thread over on Stitcher's Guild for the "6PAC" which is a 6 piece Autumn Collection. I love the introduction. Here's the basics:

The point of these sew-alongs is to create the bones of a mix-and-match handmade wardrobe. The pace is relatively slow (two items a month) to allow you also to add the fun items that aren't the bones. The ideal pieces for this collection are BORING pieces that you wear EVERY DAY. These pieces in your wardrobe need to be beautifully fit, beautifully finished, and made with wonderful fabric. In order to work as separates they should be in a very limited colour palette -- I suggest for autumn this is one or two dark neutrals, one light neutral, and one colour. Good neutrals to pick are neutrals echoed in your hair colour; good colours are in your skin and eyes; but probably you have your own favourite colours.

The pieces are maximised for layering:

ONE jacket -- neutral
ONE bottom (skirt or trousers, though for autumn, I like trousers) -- dark neutral if you're pear-shaped, lighter if you carry weight on top
TWO underlayer tops, one ideally in a print combining your colours, one in a contrast neutral
TWO overlayer tops, one coloured, one neutral
and possibly
ONE more bottom -- skirt if you've done trousers, trousers if you've done a skirt, or a dress if you like them

You can read more about the 6PAC here if you're interested in joining.

I am also trying to follow the basic plan from Nancy Nix-Rice. #21 on

It is still pretty hot here in the fall, so I'm not making a jacket, but a cardigan and then maybe a lightweight jacket. My base color is going to be dark brown and this is what I'm going with:

Brown Rayon knit - tank and cardigan
Brown RPL - cropped pants
Brown poly crepe - skirt
Camel and Dark brown leaf print microsuede - cropped jacket
one other top - probably another tank or T. I haven't decided on that yet. Possibly a coral colored dupioni blouse.

The reason I'm going with the camel is that I have a pair of pants that color already and another that will coordinate. I have lots of different knits that will work or blouse fabrics, so the top will be easy. Also, since I had already narrowed my color down to brown, it was easy to do a little shoe shopping while in the Bay Area a couple of weeks ago and landed a great pair of Fidji shoes. I first fell in love with this brand when I saw them at an airport in Seattle. I've never seen this brand in my area and they are made in Portugal. They are kind of pricey, but if they don't hurt my feet, it will be worth it. I'm really loving these shoes (well, I think so, I haven't worn them yet because it's too hot for anything but sandals here right now.) The color is called Pewter, but there is nothing gray about it. They are really kind of a bronze and black mottled together, so they actually look great with tons of colors, including brown and black. I think these will be great for wearing to work.

Oh, and while I was at it, I had to pick up these as well. Of course, shoes always feel perfectly fine when you're trying them on and walking around in the store. It's after you get them home and wear them for a couple of hours that they kill your feet! I don't think I'll be able to wear these to work, but definitely for church and going out.
The color looks a little off in this picture, but the Nine West are a pinkish taupe color and the Via Spiga pumps are camel.

The 6PAC doesn't start until August, so I'm still sewing some summer things for now...

Today was the first day back to work, and by the time I got home, I was too tired to even sew! I guess for a while, my sewing will be relegated to the weekends.

Oh, some of you commented about my new hair cut - but it's not. It's just up in a bun.

Boatneck Top

2011-07-31T17:32:00.000-07:00

I bought Christine Johnson pattern 311 for the boyfriend jacket, but it also came with a nice little boat neck shell. I decided to give it a shot. A couple of weeks ago I ordered a few 1 yard pieces of ITY knit from Fabric.com just to make some tanks and tops to wear under jackets or alone.

This was super simple to make - only a front and back piece. The armholes and neck edge are just turned under and stitched. I did this on my coverstitch, but I still don't have enough confidence with that to just turn and stitch so I pressed all the edges under first. This took a bit of time since polyester doesn't press well unless you use a clapper or something similar.

I'm finally figuring out to look at clothes that I already have and like to get some measurements from . This is what I did on this one.

To get the correct size, I took my fabric and wrapped it around me to the desired ease. I then measured the fabric edge and this became my finished bust circumference.

To get the hip size, I took a favorite top and measured the width. I also measured the length from the armscye down to make sure it would be long enough. I think I added 4" to this pattern. I also liked the wider hem on my RTW top, so I added enough to make a 2" hem on this top.

All in all, I'm pretty pleased with the result and will probably wear it to work tomorrow. That's right, I go back to work (officially) tomorrow. Kids don't come until Thursday, but our district starts ridiculously early. I still need more summer vacation!!!

Pants fitting

2011-07-26T16:23:00.000-07:00

If you have not been watching the webcasts by Peggy Sager, you are really missing out. I hadn't been interested because I thought the patterns looked dated, but somehow I stumbled across the pants fitting one and was VERY impressed. She also explains how to get the look you want (style) from the basic pattern once you get the fit right. So don't be fooled by the envelope pictures! You can see past webcasts (and there are a lot - and they're free!) at silhouettepatterns.com. Scroll down and click on the link for webcasts. I am trying to follow her method as I make this muslin.

I am using the Sally pant as my base pattern. Now, I would never have chosen this style based on the envelope picture, but this is her basic fit pattern, so I decided to start with that. Also, she makes 2 different versions of this in the webcast, and they both look very different. Peggy Sager uses finished measurements for her patterns - not body measurements. You take your hip measurement then sit down. It will spread a couple (or a few) inches. This is the measurement you use to determine your size.

I then took a pair of my favorite fitting pants and measured the circumference at the thigh (at the crotch), the knee, and the hem. I also measured the crotch to knee and the inseam and wrote all these measurements down. I then compared them to the pattern. This pattern has a very narrow width at the hem, but at the above ankle length, which is how I want to make them, they were the same as my pants. All of the measurements for the size 14 lined up with my pants, so that is the size I will start with.

First, cut out the pattern in muslin and mark the grain line, darts, center front and back. Silhouette patterns use 3/8" seam allowances, so I marked this with pen just on the CF. Oh, I usually have to raise the waist on pants because of a low, flat butt, so I added 1" to the top. Sine the pattern is designed for someone 5'8" tall, most people would not have to do that. I am only 5'6, but I added it to be safe. It is a muslin, so I will cut it off if it is not needed.

Next, sew the darts in front and back. Then sew the rest of the pants together except for the CF seam. I sewed about 3 inches past the crotch point.

End of session one! (Actually, I had a hair appointment, so this is when I stopped!)

Session Two:
I tried on the pants (or tried to) but they were way too small. First of all, I made the mistake of not measuring the hip measurement on my RTW pants or the Waist! Duh... I should have cut a 16 or 18! But the most foolish thing I did was to not TRACE my pattern first, so now I have not 16 or 18 left on the pattern. There are other pattern pieces with the "W" sizes, but the waist would be way too big on me.

So, the next thing I did was to measure the gap in the front to get the Center Fronts to match. It was 4" This means that I have to add 1" to each front and back piece. I cut the muslin from hem to waist between the darts and the side seams. The reason I did not cut it up the middle is because the darts should be 4-5 inches away from the CF and I did not want to have to reposition the darts should this work. For my muslin, I only did the correction on one leg front and back to see the difference.

Well, now the CF comes to my center, but it is still too tight. Might be OK in a heavy stretch twill, but not in any kind of light weight fabric. So now, I'm thinking, "What do I do?" I could add another 1/2" to each piece, or I could cut the W size and try to grade it down. Either way, I think I would lose the integrity of the lines of the pattern. Since this pattern happens to be the "fit" pattern for all of the other pants in the Silhouette line, I wanted to make it right. I contacted Peggy Sager asking what the best way to approach it would be, and she graciously offered to send me another pattern at no charge and suggested to make the 18 and then work from there. I am anxiously awaiting the new pattern and want to really get a pant with a good fit. So far, I really like these, but they are just too tight. I am seriously wanting to get Peggy's complete set of DVDs and will probably do it right after payday. In the meantime, I am going to watch all of her webcasts. I have found them very informative and inspiring.

I Should Start Listening to Myself - Vogue 8495

2011-07-16T21:48:00.000-07:00

For some reason, I have been having a lot of headaches recently. I've always had migraines, but not usually so many in the summer. (Actually, I was hoping that the recent hysterectomy would have rectified that!) Anyway, I have told myself numerous times that I should not sew when I have a headache. It usually ends up in one problem or another.
Well, I cut out Vogue 8495 yesterday and I wanted to get it sewn up. I woke up with a headache today, but it didn't seem that horrible, so I went ahead. I had everything cut out to make view C with the collar and sleeves. I laid out my pattern carefully and had all of my border prints the way I wanted them.

This pattern has you do a weird thing with the yoke lining. You sew the front yoke and lining together and then the back yoke and lining together. Then, you join the yokes at the shoulders and slipstitch the inside shoulderseam. I have made sleeveless dresses that were lined with this same method, but have never liked the results. The stitching never seems to stay secure at the shoulder and you don't get a nice smooth curve. But, it had been a long time since I had done this so I decided to give it a go. Well, I got all of this done and the yoke sewn to the bodice, and all of the hand stitching when I realized - I was following the directions for view A (no sleeves or collar) and had enclosed the neck and armholes, so it was too late to put them in!! I must remember not to sew when I have a headache!

The top came out OK, but it is a little tight across the front where the yoke meets the bodice. I think the problem is because the armholes are too high. So, tonight I took out the bias binding, undid the yoke and recut the armholes. I only lowered them 1/4 inch, but I think that will be enough. It felt better when I tried it on, but maybe I will wear it tomorrow after church and see how it feels. Oh, yeah, you can probably tell by this picture that I still have the headache.

Uganda part 6 - School in Uganda

2011-07-15T09:20:00.000-07:00

I know I've posted about schools in Uganda before, but being a teacher, I am always amazed at the conditions of the schools. We complain about the number of students we have and the condition of our classrooms, but there is no comparison to the schools in the villages or the cities.

The cities have somewhat better school buildings, but it all depends on where you go to school. All schools are "pay" whether you go to private or public. Apparently there are very few public schools and they are in worse shape than the ones I will show you here! This year I did not visit any of the city schools, but I did get to visit the school in Busanna and peek in at the classrooms in Kasana since they were right next door to where we were sewing (in the church)

Many of the schools in Uganda are owned by one church or another. There are many Muslim schools, and they offer some tuition-free schools in order to build up their "clientele". There are also a lot of Christian schools and then schools that teach both Muslim and Christian theology (I don't see how that happens)

Teachers are allowed to beat the children. However, you never see any discipline problems and all of the students are quiet and attentive. Even with 50+students in a classroom! It is my understanding that many of the teachers in Uganda are working for free right now and many have not been paid in 2 years! I don't know if this is only in the villages, or in the cities as well. The pastor of the church in Kasana is also a fourth grade teacher, so I am going to try to get some pen-pal letters going with my students as soon as school starts.

Most of the schools in Uganda do not have books. Can you believe it? One school I visited a couple of years ago in Kampala had a whole room full of books, but there were no class sets of anything, so they really couldn't be used for instructional purposes. The students have composition books and copy whatever the teacher writes on the board. The teachers do not even have teacher's manuals. School in the city starts at 7am and goes until 5pm. Many of the schools are boarding schools, so even though the parents may live in the same city, the children would live at the school. Students start in "baby class" at age 3 and they have a shorter day - they only go until 1:00. I think the shorter day goes all the way up to second grade. In the villages some of the schools get out earlier, like at 2:00, but it just depends on the age of the students and the village. Many go until 4.

The students put on an assembly for us. Here they are lining up

We don't have any of these at my school. When the director saw me taking a picture of the goat, he asked me why. I said, "We don't keep goats at our school" He laughed and said, "These goats do not belong to the school! They belong to a neighbor. We are just keeping them here" (oh, that explains it.)

I am getting ready to start school again. Our teachers go back on August first and the students come on the fourth. I will not have 50 students in my class. I will have desks, books, and teachers manuals. I will get paid. I will have to remember these things when I am going crazy and feeling all of the stress and pressure that our schools have today!

I have more pictures here if you are interested.

Uganda part 5 - shopping in Jinja

2011-07-12T08:00:00.000-07:00

This is a typical scene on the street of any "city" in Uganda. Shops are very small, very close together, and you might find the weirdest combination of items in any one store. Some stores are definitely specialty shops and might just sell paper, or electronics, or shoes (generally used).

The streets are busy and crowded, but Jinja is a bit of a respite from shopping in a big city like Kampala. I liked shopping in the bigger city, but my friend Karen says she'd rather shop in a town where you don't have to take you life in your hands just to cross the street. Actually, that's not an exaggeration. The cars in Kampala drive FAST, about 6" between them - and I mean front to back and side to side! Also, they don't care if they hit you, and many men will yell out to you, whistle, or call you names. Not pretty. Jinja is much more mild in that respect, but again, it is much smaller. That also means there is less selection and things are a bit more expensive. We were fortunate to find this shop owned by an Indian man. He was very nice and when he found out that we were buying fabric for the villages and to sew for children, he was compassionate. He gave us the best price of any other shop we'd been to by far. The "cotton" that we bought there was about 15,000 Ugandan shillings for a 6 meter piece. That means it was a little under $1.00 per yard! The reason I put "cotton" in quotation marks is because they always insist it is cotton. This is a thinner material than the wax-print and I believe it is part polyester. I like it though because the dress I'm wearing in the picture is made of that fabric. It does not wrinkle, but was cool enough to wear. The wax print was a little more expensive, and I actually just prewashed some and have it on my cutting table.

We took our friend Betty with us while shopping - which you must do in Uganda. There are 2 prices for everything. The regular price and the Muzungu (white person) price. They don't try to hide it. It's just a fact, you are Muzungu, you pay more. Also, you MUST bargain your prices. If you don't, they will consider you a fool and really take advantage of you. If a shop owner is unwilling to bargain, they are "rude" and you can tell them so. I'm glad we had Betty with us.

We ended up having to go back to this shop and buy more fabric. We did not have Betty with us, but fortunately for me, the man remembered me and still gave me the same good price on the fabrics. Oh, and I was telling you that there are weird combinations of things in the shops? Well, this shop sold beautiful fabrics and soccer balls!!! Go figure.

In Uganda there are basically 5 types of fabric.

Sequined and embroidered fabric - there are a lot of Muslim and Indian people in Uganda. These fabrics are typically used for their traditional dress.
Polyester charmeuse - this fabric is used for the traditional "Gomez" Ugandan dress. This is incredible for me since we all know how hot polyester is. Also, the Gomez uses about 6 meters to make. It is layers upon layers.
Kitenge fabric. This is the beautiful wax print fabric that is used to make the 2 piece dresses that more of the "modern" girls will wear. I believe this style actually comes from Kenya.
The "cotton" which I believe is polyester. This is more "affordable" and comes in the same beautiful prints as the kitenge fabric
The solids and other print fabric that is lighter weight. This is more of a broadcloth type fabric and is mostly used to be tied around the waist over the nicer clothes. Sort of like we would use an apron. This is sold in 4 meter lengths where all of the above fabrics are sold in 6 meter lengths. I bought some of this fabric the first year I went to Uganda, and although I really liked the print, I hated the fabric. It was off grain and never would hang straight. I ended up giving that skirt to the Good Will!

I did this year find one place that sold wool and twill for men's trousers, but I think you have to look deep to find that stuff. It always amazes me that in that heat so many wear long pants, long sleeves and even sweaters and jackets. Even though it was much cooler this year, it was still in the 80s every day and humid.

M5586 for me this time

2011-07-12T07:38:00.000-07:00

I loved my daughter's top so much, and since the pattern was already on the cutting table, I decided to make one for myself. This version is made out of a rayon crepe. The print is pretty busy, so I used a solid rayon/linen blend for the yoke. I like the contrast.

There were a few things I did differently on this one. I cut the yoke a straight 10 on this one, but left the body back an 8 and the front a 10. I did not have to do a FBA since it is so full in the front, but I did widen the hips out a bit. I did not use the "maternity adjustments" that I did on Grace's top :-)

On this version I used bias tape to finish the armholes and

used the blind stitch function on my machine to do the hem.

Yesterday was my birthday, so my son Nick came down from Fresno and we all went out to our favorite little place for Teppanyaki. We had a great day.
Uh,, you can't tell that these two are brother and sister, can you? I think they're gorgeous, but I AM a little biased!

Uganda part 4 - the trouble with treadles

2011-07-09T08:58:00.000-07:00

While we were in Uganda, we bought 2 sewing machines. Both of them are treadles. Since there is no electricity in the villages (and even it the cities it is very unreliable - more on that later) treadles are the best bet for sewing of any kind. You see them everywhere. Apparently, they still make new treadle sewing machines in China or someplace and send them to third world countries. The machines (with cabinets) ended up costing us about $100 apiece. There was no choice over make and model - you take whatever they have. The machines we got are singers and very pretty. Unfortunately, it seems they are pieces of you know what.

So, since we missed our shopping day in Kampala (lots of flight problems, delays, and cancellations) we ended up doing our shopping in Jinaja. This actually ended up working out better because we had to take BOTH machines back and get them replaced. Jinja is much closer to where we were than Kampala.

We struggled with one of the machines all day the first day of sewing, and discovered that there was a mechanical problem with it. Florence has some experience with machines, so she figured this out. We took that machine back and borrowed another machine from a tailor in the village. (The term tailor is loosely used - in Uganda, anyone who sews is a tailor.)

On the third day, we couldn't get either of the machines to work. We had a sewing machine mechanic come over and we worked on the machines all morning. The one we bought also had a mechanical problem (different than the first one) and had to be returned. The one we borrowed kept jamming.

If you've ever sewn on a treadle machine, here's the problem You have to get the machine going forward. I know this sounds simple, but when you are working that treadle, it can start off going backworkd. So, you spin the fly wheel toward you and start peddling. This makes the machine go forward. An experienced treadler can keep it going forward. I am not experienced. The ladies I work with are more experienced than I am in using this kind of machine, but still considered "learner." When learners are using the treadle, we tend to let our feet slow down or stop when coming to a curve, corner or end of a seam. Then, when we start sewing again, this makes the machine go backward. Of course, then we hit the flywheel to make it go forward, which it does - until it jams. This is hard on the machine and causes problems. I think we spend more time fixing the machines than productively using them. Also, you need to oil treadles frequently while using them. I'm not sure why this is.

The mechanic who came over was named Enos. He was very helpful and seemed to know what he was doing. If I had to spend all that time fixing my machine instead of using it, I don't know that I would really want to sew!

Uganda part 3 - the Villages & a New Plan

2011-07-09T07:48:00.001-07:00

The last week of our trip was spent in the village of Kayunga Kasanna. This is a small and beautiful village outside of the city of Kayunga. It is on the Nile River (if you walk far enough into the village, which we did not do this time, but did last year.) It was wonderful to go back and see familiar faces as well as new ones.
During the first week of our trip Karen and I spent a lot of time refining our plan for the villages. A few things came to our attention that we were not aware of. First of all, with this being such a male dominated society (and abusive) there was concern that the sewing machines could be destroyed or sold if put in the women's homes. This brought on a chain of other concerns and considerations, but finally we came up with a plan. My biggest concern was what we had planned and how much time we had. We only had 5 days at the most and we wanted to teach 2 women how to make shorts, button shirts, and dresses. OMG, under the best of circumstances I don't know that I could teach 2 new beginners to make these three garments well in just 4 or 5 half day sessions. I was really stressing out about this. I knew we did not have access to electricity, pressing equipment, good light or reliable machines (another post about that later). In addition, there was the language barrier. (I do not speak Lugandan and very few women speak English. Those that do, don't understand us and we don't understand them.) Nonetheless, we really wanted to make this work, so Karen and I did a lot of brainstorming. Also, our original plan was to do a basic micro-economics business plan, but after talking to some of the women, we realized this would not work either! I did a lot of praying about all of this. Well, thanks to God, we came up with a new plan.

We knew that the women we worked with (we planned on two, but ended up with three) would need a lot of practice time. There would be no way that we would be able to get them up to speed enough to be making uniforms in one week! We went into the city of Jinja and bought a lot of fabric in beautiful colors. We now were planning on training 3 women. (Actually, I was doing this part and Karen was working with 20 other ladies on hand embroidery.) We came up with a "business plan." The women would each need to make at least 4 pair of shorts (elastic waist), 3 shirts and 3 dresses in order to develop their skills and confidence. These practice garments would then go to children in their villages who needed clothes. This was a perfect solution. Their giving back to their own villages would be their "payment" for use of the machines. The machines would be kept at the church (2 in Kasanna and one at the resource center in Busanna.) After the women completed making clothes for the children of the village, they could then use the machines to make garments to sell. The patterns that we used would still work perfectly for school uniforms when used with different fabric. Also, at this point, if the women wanted to buy the sewing machine so that they could take it home, we made an affordable price (1/2 of what we paid) available to them.

I worked with 3 women from 3 different villages. The first is Kathy. She lives in the village of Kasanna. I have known her the longest and of the 3 women, she speaks the most English. Last year Kathy took us on a walk through her village and we even took shelter in her home (mud hut) during a rainstorm. She has some basic sewing skills, but is still a beginner.

The next of the women in Florence. We met her last year and she lives in the village of Busanna. She has intermediate sewing skills and does a lot of sewing already. For example, she knows to understitch a neckline, but didn't know to trim corners or seam allowances. How I wish I could work with these women for a much longer period of time. Florence understands some English, but not as much as Kathy. She rarely speaks in English.

The newest to our group was Phobe (pronounced "Faybee") She lives in a village called Sababu. I have not been to this village, but hope go go there next year. It is more primitive than Kasanna. They do not have a church building there, so she will have to walk to Kasanna to use the sewing machines. It is about a 2 KM walk. She was very shy and quiet, but had such a beautiful spirit and really wanted to learn. I think she knows a few phrases in English, but doesn't understand much. Also, I think she has had no previous sewing experience. Fortunately, sewing is very visual, so she picked up very quickly. I'm really missing these women right now.

While I worked with Florence, Kathy and Phobe, Karen worked with the other ladies (about 20) on embroidery. We had decided before we came that we would do embroidery since this is something that they could all do, each having their own piece to work on. The women loved this and were proud of their work. They also told us that this is something they could do to make items to sell. They were very excited about it.

The women that did embroidery, also hand sewed a little drawstring bag to keep their supplies in. We also completed 1 pair of shorts, cut out 2 more, 1 dress with two more cut out, and one shirt. Hopefully they can do the rest on their own.
You can see more pictures here and I'll be adding more sometime this week.

McCalls 5586 - now maternity.

2011-07-08T18:37:00.000-07:00

I've wanted to make this top forever but have been putting it off for just as long. The problem was that I did not know what I wanted to use to embellish it with. I'd looked at JoAnns (our only resource) a few times and had never found anything I wanted. I did see some beads I thought would work, but really wanted something that I could just glue on. Yesterday I decided to pull out McCalls 5586 and make it for my daughter. I was surprised to find that there are very few maternity patterns in the pattern catalogues, but thought this top would do well with some minor adjustments. I had some wonderful rayon jersey that I thought would be perfect, but I still didn't know how I was going to embellish it. I went to JoAnns this morning and picked up a few different things, but as soon as I put these rhinestones on the fabric, I knew it was just what the top needed.

I cut an 8 in the back and a 10 in the front. The yoke is an 8. I also pivoted the Center Front on the fold out about an inch at the bottom to make the front bigger and lengthened it about an inch and a half as well. This should make the top still fit well as she gets bigger. I like this top so much that I wish I would have made it for myself! hahaha!

The rhinestones were just some black acrylic packaged rhinestones that I found at JoAnns this morning. I used Aleens Jewel-it Embellishment adhesive to stick them on. The package says to let the glue come up around the jewel, but I found that this made a stain on the fabric, so I used less glue on the rest of the jewels. It says to wait 7 days before laundering and at least 24 hours before wearing. Hopefully the "jewels" won't all fall off the first time she washes it!

Rebecca - first attempt

2011-07-05T12:50:00.000-07:00

Well, after many hours, and lots of ripping out seams and discovering mistakes, it is finished. I made a big mistake with the elastic, which, in turn, caused me to have to cut the back band shorter. So, it is a little tight in the band, but not too tight to wear. (unless I gain back the 5 lbs I've lost lately!)
This bra is basically a muslin, so I just used what I had on hand. It is wearable though, so that is good.

Here is a partial of my review at PR:

This bra took me 2 days to put together. The next one should go together much faster. I now realize that I prefer non-elastic straps, so next time I will make them out of fabric. Also, this pattern has a fairly wide back, which I did not think I would like. Even though I made a mistake that made my band smaller than it should be (in circumference), I still think this wider back really helps eliminate “fat back” and looks nice under a top.
back view

Fabric Used: the pattern calls for lingerie lycra for cups and sides. I did not have findings that matched any of my lycra, so I used tricot instead. The lower and side cups, as well as the sides and back are all lined with powermesh, so you really can use any kind of knit you want.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: For this one, I made a straight 75E. I’m going to try the F next time to see how they compare. I did not make any intentional design changes, but I did run into a few problems that created unintentional changes.

Conclusion There are several things that I need to change or mistakes that I made. I will let you know what they are so you can avoid the same mistakes.

First of all, I do not like that the lower cup does not come up high enough to cover the nipple. I’m hoping that using the next size up will correct this. Otherwise, I will line the upper cup with flesh colored tricot.
The center front is a little wide, so I will make that a bit narrower next time.
The English instructions I used said to add 10mm seam allowances to the upper seams, or whatever size elastic you are using. Well, the pattern calls for 1.5 m plush elastic and with all the changing from metric to standard, I didn’t realize that it didn’t say what size. I had 5/8” elastic on hand and didn’t realize that I had only added 3/8” seam allowances to the pattern. This caused the back to come out too narrow, which meant that I had to shorten it in order to get the hook closure to fit right.
The pattern didn’t really show any way to clean finish the upper edge of the cups where the elastic meets and there are seam allowances turned under. Next time I will finish this as soon as I add the elastic.
I like using 5/8” elastic at the bottom, so I will need to widen the seam allowances there, although I can use 3/8” at the top.
The wires I used I had ordered from Sew Sassy last year, but they were too long and I had to cut them. It was kind of a pain, but I was able to get the plastic tip off and replace it on the wire. You might want to measure the cup and your wires before beginning.
I used crappy plush elastic from JoAnns which has WAY too much stretch. This is fine for the sides, but terrible for the straps. If you end up using this type of elastic, do NOT make your straps out of it. (also, it's not very pretty)

Since it is very difficult for me to find my bra size in RTW, and when I do I’m usually looking at $75.00 up, I’m definitely going to try to perfect this pattern. I do like the shape of the cups better than the result I got from KwikSew 3300, however, I think the construction on the KS pattern was much easier and gave just as nice a result.

There is still some wrinkling under the cups that I'd like to correct, but I still think I need to go to the bigger size in order for it to fit better in the CF. Also, I'm hoping the larger size will bring the lower cup up more

Sewing with Rebecca

2011-07-04T18:41:00.000-07:00

I had surgery earlier this week and am not supposed to be doing much of anything. I tried sewing a couple of times earlier in the week, but ended up giving up before I could even get anything traced. Well, yesterday, I finished tracing the Sewy Rebecca bra pattern. It has a 3 piece cup and a band. (Most of my RTW bras do NOT have a band)

I bought this pattern last year as I had been inspired by several bras that Sigrid has made. When I got my pattern out about a month ago, I thought I had the wrong size because of the chart on the envelope. As it turns out, I had the right size after all. I was inspired again to make this bra after seeing the beautiful one that Cidell did just recently. It seems like it is taking me forever to put this thing together. First I traced all the pattern pieces, but then realized I probably needed a 75E, but won't really know until it is finished. So, I traced it again.. The pattern does not have SAs, so I added them. Then, I realized that I needed two different sized seam allowances, so I had to change those. Fortunately, I had a great set of instructions in English from Elingeria, where I ordered the pattern. Unfortunately, they no longer carry this pattern.

I am just using basic white, because that is what I have. I have a beautiful colored plum with matching lace, but no bra hook piece in that color. After making this one, I'll know if that will be easy to alter or not.

This is definitely a heavy duty bra because the back pieces are pretty wide. This is what I have done so far:

I'll keep you posted on my progress.

Uganda part 2 - Compassion

2011-07-02T06:15:00.000-07:00

Last year we had a presentation at our church from Compassion International. Karen and I decided that we would sponsor a child together and looked for one from Uganda. We picked out a little boy named Julius and have been supporting him for almost a year now. When we were planning this year's trip to Uganda, we decided to see if we could hook up to meet him. As it turned out, Julius lives in Jinja, right where we were staying! There was a lot of red tape involved in scheduling our visit, and it took weeks to get it approved - good thing we started early.

On the first Saturday of our trip, we got a ride out to the local Compassion headdquarters located in Jinja. We met with the administrator and found out what the program was all about. Basically, the money we send covers Julius's school fees, uniform, medical care, and each Saturday at the Compassion site. There they receive breakfast and lunch, health screenings, and classes in spiritual growth, hygiene, physical fitness, trade skills, additional academics, and some kind of emotional support. What I found most encouraging was the fact that the director (Patrick) was a Compassion child himself, and that's how he survived.

We met our boy Julius and were given an introduction to the assembly of students that morning.

After that, we got to go out to visit Julius's home.

This was the best part of the trip. Even though his home was a hovel from the outside, and the walls were made of cardboard on the inside, his mother had it neat and clean, and decorated nicely. The home was very dark inside because there are no windows. It only looks bright because of the flash.

She had prepared food for us, which I'm sure cost her dearly. She had Coke (something given for very special guests), biscuits (cookies), bananas, and hard boiled eggs.

Last year Karen and I sent a little extra money on Julius's birthday, and with part of that money, they bought a chicken. The mother told us that these eggs were from the chicken that we had helped to provide!

The mother was very gracious and hospitable and we also got to meet the brothers and sisters. I think the father was working that day as he was a boda boda driver (motorcycle taxi).

Our little boy Julius is very industrious it seems. Here is a little car that he made out of an oil can. Of course, little brother had to put his toy car in the picture too!

After our visit, Julius drove with us back to the hotel and visited for a little longer, and then he went back to the compassion center for the rest of the day. We were very blessed by our visit.

Uganda part 1- Jinja

2011-07-01T07:17:00.000-07:00

We headed off for Uganda expecting the unexpected, but we didn't expect the unexpected to show up before we got there! We had a number of flight delays, changes, and cancellations, and at one point wondered if we would have to cancel the trip! We did finally make it, but we ended up at the Entebbe airport in the middle of the night when no one was expecting us, so we were fortunate to be able to get ahold of our hosts and get a ride to Kampala. Betty and Moses Odongo are a pastor and wife in Kampala and they were our host for the first couple of days. Of course, we missed the first 24 hours with all of our delays, but we did get to spend a day with Betty. That afternoon we headed off to Jinja where we would be part of a pastor's conference on purity and we worked with the pastors' wives. We knew that domestic abuse was widespread in Uganda, but we did not realize how far it went. Also, it is not illegal in Uganda to have more than one wife, so many men do. Believe me, the wives are not happy about this either.

The first few days in Jinja we stayed at a nice little guest house called "Cool Breeze" and we were actually surprised this trip to have some cool breezes in the mornings. June is definitely a better time to visit than March or April. This was a nice guest house for Uganda, but in the first room we had, the toilet didn't work and the room smelled. None of the windows would close all the way (mosquitos) but they did have wide mesh screens. We asked for another room the next day and they gave us a downstairs room. This room had a window that looked directly onto a mens urinal for "public" restroom use. Great. We also had no light in the bathroom, but I guess that didn't matter since we only had power for 2-3 hours each evening when they turned on the generator. Our room was also near the front porch, so it was noisy when people were talking outside, and the bed was a board with a foam pad on it. I was usually so tired at the end of the day that I didn't have any trouble falling asleep though.
During the day we attended and helped facilitate the Purity conference for the women and got to know some of these pastors' wives. There were also other women there from the different churches and it was nice to get to meet them. Most of these women were from cities although a few were from the villages. Many of the women spoke English, as it is the official language of the country. Most of the women from the villages did not speak English and spoke Lugandan instead. We had one woman who translated for us and it was great to watch her. She was very good.

On Sunday afternoon we worked with these ladies teaching them embroidery. They were very excited to learn it and many said they could and would use this skill to make items to sell to provide income for their families. It was such a blessing to be with these women.

Leaving on a Jet Plane . . .

2011-06-12T12:16:00.000-07:00

Well, Ladies, I leave tomorrow morning, dark and early. I am so humbled and amazed at the support from all of the sewists out there. I am grateful for your support and prayers. I am excited for this trip and looking forward to whatever God has in store for us and the women of Uganda. We will arrive at night, and will stay with a pastor and his family in Kampala. The next day, Karen and I will go shopping for sewing machines and fabric to set up a couple of village women in their own business. (Of course, I may have to make a few fabric purchases of my own!)

On Thursday, we will be going into the town of Jinja which is right on the equator and the start of the Nile River. Karen and I support a child through an organization called “Compassion.” This child lives close to Jinja, so we are getting to actually meet him for a couple of hours on Thursday morning. After that, we will be working with a group of pastor’s wives and teaching on the topic of forgiveness.
On Sunday, we will be moving out again and this time, going to a town called Kayunga. From here, we will go out into the villages (Busanna and Kasana). This is where we will be doing sewing with the women. I am a little worried because I want to teach them to make school uniforms, but have had difficulty in getting enough patterns for both ladies in all the sizes. I guess I will also be teaching how to size up or down a pattern! I don’t know what materials they have available for tracing over there, but I’m pretty sure I can get ahold of wax paper, so that is what I am planning on getting while I’m there. We will be in the villages through Friday and leave on a late night flight.

I am so looking forward to seeing these dear women again and meeting new ones. And thanks again for all of your support and also to those who linked my blog entry to theirs. What a wonderful group of women we sewists are!

This is the Nile River - - -

Only a Couple of Weeks!

2011-05-27T19:22:00.000-07:00

First of all I want to send out a big THANK YOU to all of you who have made donations to support my trip! Debbie Cook posted a link on her blog asking all of her readers to even just send $5.00. Well, lots did (and some donated more) and that really did add up! Thank you again! Tomorrow we are having a huge rummage sale at our church and the proceeds are going toward our trip. Please pray that we will raise the money we need because I am still about $1200 short, and so is Karen. Our trip is just a short time away - we are leaving on the 13th of June.

This is a picture of Kathy and me. I met Kathy on my first trip to Uganda. She lives in a small village called Kasana. She speaks more English than most of the women I've met there, but maybe she just has more confidence. Last spring she took Karen and I on a walk through the village, and when we got struck by a downpour, she ran us into her home. It is a mud and thatch adobe hut, and it was nice and cool inside. The whole hut was probably about 10 feet in diameter. She lives there with her husband and some children, but I don't think they are hers. She has a job selling some kind of porridge in the evening in the center of the village. For many, this is all they eat. They do grow some different fruit and vegetables there in the village, but I think most of it is sold in a nearby town. The only transportation you see there other than foot traffic, is the occasional bicycle. If someone wants to go into the town (about 15 minute drive by car)they either walk down the main road at the edge of the village or walk until they catch a boda boda. Bodas are motorcycle taxis. They are everywhere. Some people even take a bicycle taxi.

I believe that Kathy will be one of the women we will be setting up with her own sewing machine. She was one of the more adept last year and seems to have a "business mind." Of course, business in Uganda is nothing like it is here. I am anxious to go back and see the women we got to share with last year. Some of them were pregnant then, so we may get to see their new babies.

Thank you all for your prayers, support, and comments I have received regarding our trip this year. Gwen asked if I would consider to "open it up" to new people! Absolutely! We would love to have more people come. If you are a believer in Jesus Christ, and feel that God has put it on your heart to serve these women in this way, please let me know and I can give you more details on how to get involved.

I would appreciate your prayers over the next few weeks that Karen and I would stay healthy, that we will have energy and compassion, that we will be well used by God, and have safe travel. Having rheumatoid arthritis, sitting still for more than an hour or two can be miserable. Our air travel alone is over 20 hours, plus we have layovers. I can almost never sleep on the plane, so I am usually a little wiped out for the first few days. I also need to return healthy, as I am having surgery as soon as I return. Pray for the women of Uganda, that they would have strength and faith to endure all of the struggles they face every day. They are always so inspired when they find out how many people are praying for them and helped to support us to get us there. They just cannot believe it.

Again, if you would care to support this mission, you can either send money directly to me through paypal or donate directly to International Messengers. My email is nwinning@gmail.com and International Messengers address is in my last post.

I did get this outfit finished and will be wearing it during my trip. I bought this fabric in Uganda last year. Actually, they would never make a dress out of this. It is too thin. They use a much heavier cotton for their dresses. They use this fabric for something they put on over their skirts, like an apron. I wanted something lighter weight because it is so hot there.

Uganda Update

2011-05-07T14:48:00.001-07:00

I'm in the middle (or should I say late stages? ) of planning my trip to Uganda. For those of you who may be new to my blog, I will give you the background.
It all started a few years ago when I listened to a podcast of an interview with Sandra Betzina. She happened to mention that she had just returned from Ethiopa where she goes every year to teach women to sew. She didn't say any more about it, but, I thought "I wonder if that is some kind of mission trip." I also wondered how you would get involved in something like that and thought that maybe I would want to do it. A few weeks later I was talking to a friend of mine who had gone on a medical mission to Uganda. I was asking her about it and mentioned this podcast I had heard. She said she knew someone who could set up a trip like that and that we should come over for lunch that day since he was going to be there on a visit from MN.

Andy and I went to my friends house for lunch and talked to a man named John Pipes, who I had met once before. He used to attend our church a long time ago, but had since moved to MN. John works for International Messengers and does ministry in the villages of Uganda. I told him what I was interested in and he said, "You decide what you would like to do, when you can go, and I'll set up the trip." Wow! I think that was during winter and on my Easter break I was on a plane to Uganda with no one I knew meeting someone I had only met a couple of times before, to go to a country where most of the people don't speak English (even though it is the "official" language) having very little idea of what I'd be doing there.

There were some other college kids that we met up with, but they were doing a music ministry and I was the only one doing sewing. It was so fun and amazing and rewarding. I couldn't believe how appreciative the women (and men) were just over the fact that I had come. It didn't even matter if I had taught them anything or done anything, they were just excited that I was there.

The following year, I went again, and this time spent more time in the Village. I got to see some of the same faces as the year before and lots of new ones. Some of the women did speak limited English but they have such a heavy accent that I could not understand most of what they said! They asked me what language I speak. I replied "English." They said, "No you don't" It was so funny. They said they could not understand me either. That second year I took another lady friend with me and we worked with the women in the villages teaching them to sew on treadle machines and doing bible study in the afternoon. Here is a picture of the women in the skirts that they made:

This year I have the opportunity to go again. I am very excited, but I'm asking for your help if any of you feel lead to do so. Our expenses this year will be much higher because of air fare. Our plane tickets alone are over $2700! This is what we will be doing.

It takes about 2 days to get to Uganda. The first day we are there, we will be shopping in Kampala for fabric and 2 sewing machines. These will be used in the villages. The next day, we will be traveling to Jinja, which is a much smaller town. It is on the equator and is where the "origin of the Nile" is. There is a pastor's conference that weekend on purity and we will be ministering to the wives. There are a lot of problems in Uganda with infidelity, domestic abuse, alcoholism, aides, and corruption as well as extreme poverty, yellow fever, and malaria. Here is a picture of one of the "classrooms" that we saw when we were in the slums of Kampala

Last year one woman asked us what we would do in her position. Her husband has been having an affair with another woman, and now he has brought this woman home to live with him and the wife. He expects the wife to take care of the children and home as well as cook for him and his new girlfriend! I'm telling you, the situations they deal with are nothing like what we have here. One woman asked us if we could take a couple of her children home with us because she couldn't afford to feed all of them.
After the pastor's conference, we will be going into the villages for the next week. We will be teaching the majority of the women who come hand sewing and embroidery. The two machines we purchase will be given to two of the women who the pastor has chosen to start up their own businesses. I will be teaching them more sewing skills and helping them find a way to market what they make. They will pay us back with a small amount of money each month from what they make so that we can buy two more machines to get more women involved in the business of sewing,. At this point, I'm thinking school uniforms since there are millions of children there and they all wear uniforms. Most of the uniforms you see children in are worn, stained and falling apart. We still don't have all the details worked out on this yet.

Please be thinking and praying about whether this is something you would like to help support. All donations are greatly appreciated. There are two ways to donate. You could send a check to me directly at Nancy Winningham, 1430 S. Grand Street, Visalia, CA 93292. If you would like a tax receipt, you can send a check to International Messengers with a note that it is for me and the Ugandan sewing ministry. Their address is PO Box 618, Clear Lake, IA 50428-0618. You will receive a receipt that can be used for a tax write off. Thank you so much for your thoughts, prayers, and any support you can give. These women across the globe are grateful!

ETA: Debbie Cook suggested that use PayPal and I hadn't even thought of that. Thanks, Debbie! If you would like to support me by making a donation through PayPal, my email address is nwinning@gmail.com.

Performance Fabric

2011-05-06T18:14:00.001-07:00

In August of 2009, I bought an length of "performance fabric" from Fabric.com
It is called Dryflex. 90% polyester, 10% lycra. It is print on one side and solid on the other. I bought it to make a tank top, just to see how it would work. The website said that it was breathable and moisture wicking, so I wanted to give it a try. 6977 At first, I had trouble getting my machine not to skip stitches (good thing I tried on a sample first.) I changed to a #10 jersey ball point needle and a narrow zigzag, and that worked perfectly.
The shirt pattern is New Look 6977. I have made this top before and it is pretty easy. What I like about it is that it has raglan sleeves that just cover the shoulder but are still as cool as a sleeveless top.

The neckline has a separate band that is stitched on and is gathered in the front with clear elastic. I couldn't find my clear elastic, so I cut an elastic hanger out of a cardigan and used it!

I finished the seams with the serger and did the hems with the coverstitch machine.

I never thought I'd be a fan of one seam pants, but I have to say, I've been loving these. I'll be glad when the weather cools down next week so that I can wear them one day. It was 96 yesterday and probably that again today.

New Pants - V1197

2011-05-01T21:26:00.000-07:00

I just finished making these new pants and I really like them. They are not quite a legging, but they are not quite trousers, either. They are a slim pant. They actually look slimmer on the pattern envelope, so I'm thinking that maybe I should have made a size C instead of a size D. I will definitely make these again. There is no side seam,but there is a slit in the side. Super fast and super easy. These will work well with some of the longer tops I've been wanting to make.

Cutting Off Grain fabric

2011-04-30T21:23:00.001-07:00

Elaray asked how I cut the pattern with it being so off grain. I thought that would be a good topic for a post since we all seem to run into that once in awhile.

Well, first of all there are 2 kinds of off grain, and this fabric was both. Sometimes a fabric is woven off grain (the lengthwise and crosswise threads are not perpendicular). The first thing I did was to cut a slit about 3 inches in on the fabric, and tear it from selvege to selvege. I then lined this torn edge against a vertical line on my cutting board, and lined up the fold along a horizontal line. This took some smoothing and weighting down the fabric. (If I had been using a cardboard cutting mat, I would have just pinned the fabric into shape.) Sometimes you have to stretch the fabric on the bias to make it straighten out, but smoothing it out usually works pretty well for me. That's when I took the picture in the last post, and you can see that this fabric is also printed off grain. I usually refrain from buying prints that are obvious stripes or checks unless they are woven into the fabric. Printed stripes and plaids are rarely on-grain. If you do get a fabric like this, you have to make a decision about whether to follow the print, or the grain. Well, I have mistakenly followed the print in the past, and the garment always seems to twist or not hang right. If the print is way off, and you follow the grain, it may look really wrong after it is made up. Sometimes it just depends on what you are making.

Fortunately for me on this one, at least the lines running the length of the fabric were pretty straight, so when I followed the grain, the print lined up. Also, the print is small enough that you could fudge a little if you needed to. Since this blouse has 7 vertical seams, I figured the off-print of the fabric wouldn't be that noticeable once it was made up. And if it was, oh well, not much I could do about it. I didn't even try to line up the print on this, but it looks like I did - now you know my little secret ;-)

I was looking at some of my patterns tonight thinking of what kind of skirt I wanted to make to go with this top. I originally was thinking about a bias cut skirt, but with this fabric being as unstable as it is, and the print being off, that might not be a good choice. I may go with a gored skirt for this one.

M6035 - the Ugandan way

2011-04-30T16:04:00.000-07:00

In Uganda, you often see women wearing a skirt with matching top in African print. Well, I finished M6035 and will be making a matching skirt before I go. As I said in my last post, this fabric is thinner than what they usually use for dresses, but that is fine with me because it will also be cooler! This will also be a top that I can wear to work or even on the weekends and be comfortable. I must say that the fit is much better now, and maybe I should have just started with a 12. normally that is too big in the upper chest and back, but even though I made the sleeves bigger, they still bind when I reach forward. I would like to make it again with different sleeves. I do like the fit of this blouse now that I widened it a bit, lengthened the front, and only used 1/2" SAS on the vertical seams. For me - this pattern is a winner!

I had problems cutting this out because not only is this fabric unstable (loose weave and hard to keep the lengthwise and cross grains perpendicular, it is also printed way off grain as you can see in the picture. funny, the vertical lines are straight, but the horizontal lines are way off.

Take two - M6035

2011-04-28T07:39:00.000-07:00

Normally when something doesn't turn out the way I want it to, that's it, I'm done with it. I either give it away, throw it away, or hang it in my closet and never wear it. Well, I was encouraged by the great ladies on the boards at PR to see if I couldn't fix this blouse. First, I looked at those princess seams, and I found that I could let out about 1/8 inch in each one, which was a total of only 1/2" in the front, but it was enough to make the blouse more wearable. Also, I removed the armbands part way, added a 1" extension to each one, loosened the gathers, and refit the band. The arms are way more comfortable now and actually look much better.

I have also altered the pattern, so I'd like to try it again. I kept looking through my stash for what I wanted to make it out of and found some purple fabric that I thought would be perfect. It felt like a nice smooth cotton broadcloth. But then I prewashed it. Yikes! It is rough and heavier than I thought. I'm betting it is either Kona or Country solids from Jo Anns. Last year I made a blouse out of this fabric in gold, and although I like the blouse and the color, I never wear it because I hate the feel of the fabric.
The best blouse fabric I have ever used was this Japanese Cotton Lawn that I bought from Fabricmart years ago. I also bought a very similar lawn from Fabrics Fabrics in LA on a PR weekend that I love. I have bought other lawn fabrics online (they're hard to find in the stores around here) but have had varied results with them. That last pink and white blouse I made was supposed to be a lawn, but is actually thinner and sheerer than a batiste.

Well, I forgot all about this fabric. I bought 6 yards of it when I was in Uganda last year and at that time had planned on making a top and long skirt out of it for my trip this year. When I bought it they told me it was 100% cotton, but you can never believe anything any salesman tells you there. Most fabrics that I've purchased in Uganda feel as stiff as cardboard when you buy them, but wash up nicely. This one was no different. I couldn't believe when I took it out of the drier that it had NO wrinkles. This makes me wonder if it isn't part polyester. I don't really care and am glad for the no wrinkling since it will be packed and unpacked several times. It's thinner than some of the typical dress fabrics that they sell, so it will be cooler as well. I think I will make the next version of the McCalls blouse out of this fabric.
Hoping to get some sewing done today, but DH is getting ready to leave for a 5 day camping trip and then triathlon on Sunday. Our way-too-fat cat is going to the vet at 9. I have a hair appointment at 2 and meet with my trainer at 4:30. Busy day today, with weird gaps inbetween things. I'm sure I can squeeze some sewing time in :-)

McCalls 6035 blouse

2011-04-27T08:14:00.000-07:00

Finished this princess seamed blouse (M6035) last night, but I'm disappointed because it is too small.
I was surprised when I cut it out because this is a multi- cup sized pattern, but the only piece that is different is the side front piece. Normally when you do a FBA on a princess seamed blouse, you increase the curve in the side front AND you lengthen the CF piece to accommodate the additional curve. This pattern does not change the CF piece for any cup size, so I found it extremely difficult to ease in the princess seam.
I'm going to try it again by widening the CF at the side front seam so as not to change the neck width or upper chest size. I am also going to add just 1/2" of length a the bust point to that same piece.

I think the fit is OK in the back. THe other problem is that the sleeves are too tight. Even though I made the sleeve bands a couple sizes bigger, they are still uncomfortable.

Stash Reduction - bit by bit

2011-04-25T07:15:00.001-07:00

It is time to do something about my stash. First of all, it is a mess. Well, I guess it doesn't look that bad when I look at the picture, but things are on the wrong shelf, not folded right, and I have other piles of fabric on tables, in boxes, and in bins. This top shelf is supposed to be all jacket and coat materials

Shelf 2, knits and then some misc on the left stack.

This row is linens, rayons, and cottons

The fourth row is wools, blends, and bottom weights

There are some twills, denims, a box of linings, and who knows what else on the bottom.

I have all of my silks and silkies in another box

I haven't done any sewing in 2011 except within the last couple of weeks, but at least the following were made from stash
brown skirt
batiste top
Easter Dress

Grace's dress was made from new fabric, and even on sale, it wasn't that cheap coming out to over $15.00. A lot of my fabrics are woolens, wool blends, and coatings. BUT, I also have a lot of rayons, cottons, and other fabrics that will work well for summer. I am going to try to not buy any new fabric unless it is something I need for lining. In fact, I am going to keep track of garments made from new vs old. I'm going to keep at least a 2 old to 1 new and hopefully a much better ratio. I'm glad school will be out soon and I can do even more sewing. I still have this week on vacation and hope to get a lot done, although I have appts. every day this week and other things I need to get done. I WILL schedule some time for sewing each day!!

New Look 6891 - top #2

2011-04-24T14:40:00.000-07:00

After loving Grace's top so much, I decided to make one for myself. I really like the top, but since I had to make some adjustments for myself (FBA and bigger in hips) I didn't want to use one of my "better" fabrics until I knew the fit was right. This is fine, but I can do some things better for next time. This fabric is a very thin batiste and very see through. For that reason, I'm wearing a cami under it. Good thing, because it is very loose in the chest - not the bust, but above that in the chest. I have this problem in a lot of blouses and on tanks or other tops that are open in the front, I have solved this by putting a small dart in the pattern piece (not the fabric) at the neckline about a 1/3 of the way down from the collar bone to the chest. There is probably a better way to fix this, but I haven't seen it addressed in any of my fit books.
Also, the next time I make this (for either her or me), I will raise the neckline a bit. it is pretty low and there is no leaning over in this blouse! Another think I will do is make this narrower in the upper back. Several reviewers have mentioned the same thing on this blouse, but I have this problem in most patterns as I have a narrow back. Apparently, so does my daughter because it fits the same way on her. Actually, I probably made it too big for her. The smallest size in this pattern is a 10, and according to the measurements, that would be her size, but in RTW I think she wears a 2 or some ridiculous size! LOL Anyway, she'll need the extra room once her tummy starts getting bigger :-)

Summer top - already

2011-04-23T17:15:00.000-07:00

Yesterday DD and I went to JoAnns to pick out some patterns. She picked out this one and some fabric. I cut it out last night and made it up this morning. I really like the way this turned out. It is so cute! Super easy top to make if you don't mind putting binding around armholes and the neck. Still, it's all sewn by machine, so there was no hand sewing whatsoever. I finished all the exposed seams with the serger, so that also helped make it a quick project. I like it so much, I can see a few of these in my own wardrobe this summer!

The steps are easy on this one. First you gather the front neckline then sew the CF up to the dot. You just double turn under the raw edge to get the slit in the front. Then, sew front to back at shoulders and sides. Sew the binding to the neck edge and then sew the binding to the bottom. I do like the way they have you sew the binding to the inside first, then bring it around to the right side and topstitch it in place. The bottom band is cut on the bias, so it uses more fabric than you would expect - I think it called for 7/8 yard!

I am starting a summer sew along on PR because I need to be thinking ahead to summer. I really need some tops and shorts for warmer weather.

Easter Dress- Vogue 8553

2011-04-22T16:33:00.000-07:00

** First of all, sorry for the crappy photos on some of these. The battery died on my camera, so took this with the doc cam on my computer.

Yes! I finished it today. I'm unhappy with the fabric I used for the white trim and sash. It must be some kind of cotton blend and it doesn't hold its shape well and wrinkles. Fortunately, it seems to press out OK. I had read several reviews on PR about this dress, and most of them said it was large and too low cut. I decided to measure the pattern and cut a straight 10 in the back, but in the front I went out to a 12 at the bust and waist, but left the hips alone since it has such a full skirt. Also, many of the reviewers said the the waist was high on this, but it actually is designed to be high. I'm not so sure I like that because you have to keep the belt tight, or you lose the solid color line if the sash dips down in front.

I did add 1" in length at the bust and 1" in length all the way around (so 2" in front) I eased the extra fullness in the front at the side seams, which is a great way to do this on knits. I should have added in an extra 1-1/2" to accomodate for bust, so if I make this again, I will.

All in all, I really like this dress. The skirt is very full and swingy and I like the way the whole thing moves when I walk.

I did not find the dress to be too low in the front, but if I would have made the size indicated by the pattern envelope (14) it would have been too low and too big all around. I'm happy with this the way it is. This is an "Easy" vogue pattern. It is easy, but not quick. There is a lot of gathering (neckline front and back, waist in the back) and then the pleats front and back. I think it was worth the extra time.

I finished off the armholes and hem with the coverstitch machine. My coverstitch hems are starting to get flatter, so I'm happy about that!

DD and I went to JoAnns today to scoop up some of the Simplicity patterns on sale. Next up, I will be making a top for her. She is expecting in October, so her clothes are starting to not fit. She hasn't brought herself to the idea of maternity clothes yet, but realizes she needs some much more loosely fitted clothes for spring and summer.

Next up - Vogue 8553

2011-04-18T21:17:00.000-07:00

Over the weekend I realized that I have not made a new dress for Easter in a couple of years. Well, seeing as how I am on vacation, I have no excuse not to this year. I bought this pattern and fabric a couple of years ago and just have never put it together.

The first thing I did was to go onto Pattern Review and check out the reviews. Most of the reviewers said that the pattern is not as easy as the envelope states and that there is a lot of gathering, handsewing, and fussiness in piecing the neckline pieces. Well, so far, I have done a lot of gathering and handsewing, but I'm not in a rush, so that is OK. You don't normally expect patterns for knits to be this fussy, but there is a lot of gathering and all of the neck and front bands are faced and handsewn into place. I still need to sew on the rest of the neck band, but here is where I'm at so far:

I also decided to use my coverstitch machine to finish the armhole edges and will also use it to hem the dress. I am still below a novice with the coverstitch, but I will never get better if I don't use it! No matter how many tutorials I have looked up or watched on You Tube, I still can't get the thread to end right without releasing the tension arm inside the bottom of the machine. Oh well, that's working for me for now, so I'll live with it.

I have no idea how this is going to fit. Usually I have to cut a 10 in the shoulders, taper to a 12-14 at the waist, do a FBA and go out to a 16 in the hips. This has a full skirt, and after measuring the pattern, I decided to just cut a 10, but on the front I went out to a 12 at the underarm and added 1" in length for the full bust. I think the pattern is pretty forgiving on size since there is so much gathering and the skirt has pleats. I figure I can "make it work!"

Bad Blogger Returns

2011-04-17T17:18:00.000-07:00

It's spring break here and I am so thankful! Already I finished my first sewing project. This is the Loes Hinse Swing Skirt long version. The fabric is a poly rayon blend (no lycra) and is super comfortable. I wore the skirt to church this morning and then out and about for the rest of the day, and it still feels great. Definitely a keeper. Both times I made this I ran short on fabric and on the brown skirt, I pieced the flounce to make it work. On the Blue skirt, I couldn't work out the flounce, so used a contrasting fabric for the back panel.

From Spring 2011

I am not happy with it. The fabric for the main part of the skirt is a really drapey textured rayon, and I haven't been able to find anything like it to use for the flounce. I may just take the flounce off and replace it with some lace. Right now it is just hanging on a hanger waiting for me to do something to it.

this pattern went together really quickly and easily. The waist treatment is typical of LH, and you serge the elastic directly to the fabric, turn it under, and stitch it down.

From Spring 2011

I am planning ahead for another trip to Uganda this summer. We will be doing something a little different this year. We are flying into Kampala and staying with a Ugandan minister and his wife for the first two nights. On Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, we will be working with a group of pastors' wives at a conference in Jinja. I'm not sure what we will be doing there, but I've been told that they are anxious for us to come. On Sunday morning, we will be driving out to the Villages and spend that whole week working in Busanna and Kasana. We have worked with these women before. This year we will be getting 2 women set up in their own sewing business and will be buying treadle sewing machines, fabric and notions to get them started
In the mean time, we will be working with the other ladies teaching them embroidery and hand sewing techniques. Last year we only had two machines, so there were two ladies who wanted to do the sewing for everyone else, while everyone else wanted to just stay and watch. This was OK with them, but we want everyone to be able to participate, so with some hand sewing and especially colorful embroidery, everyone can be working at the same time. Hopefully this will be successful. As more details of our trip unfold, I will keep you posted. We are just starting our fundraising, so I will post information about that soon if you are interested in helping to support our ministry.

I'm still alive

2011-03-14T19:22:00.000-07:00

I'm still alive, but unfortunately, not sewing. The only thing I've sewn since Christmas is a cover for my Kindle. I didn't even take a picture of it before I gave it away (since I ended up getting the cover that I ordered originally that was on back order forever.)

Thanks so much to a few of you who have asked if everything is OK. It's good to know that someone notices when you're not around. Everything is fine, just way too busy.
I feel like school is really running over my life this year. I'm not spending tons of extra time there, but more than I want to. Hopefully I'll be in third grade again next year and not have to do everything brand new again.

On the home front, everything is good. God has blessed us this year, as always, and I'm thankful even in some of the "less than desirable" situations that come our way. DH has been working tons of hours, and is also training for more events with Team in Training this year. I'll post a link once I get his website up and running.

I really do want to get some sewing done, and always have great plans, but it seems like the weekends get swept away. Ever since I had knee surgery last summer, I feel like I just am not back to full strength. In fact, In the last 10 years I have had knee surgery on both knees (ALC reconstructions both times), neck surgery, and surgery on both feet. I DO NOT want to have another surgery and I want to get stronger. I finally made the big leap and started going back to the gym. That is one of the things that has been taking up my time in the last few weeks, but is also a good stress buster. I am excited because I am working with a personal trainer once a week, so I'm really planning on seeing some results. I am also going to Pilates 2 times/ week and working out a couple of times on my own. I have been trying to lose 15 pounds since last fall and have only succeeded in losing 5. I am still working on it though.

A few weeks ago I had the opportunity to go to Beverly Hills on just an overnight, but I did get to visit 2 fabric stores that I really like. One is International Silks and Woolens, and the other, F&S fabrics. Any of you PRers who went to PR weekend in LA a few years ago, you may remember there were a handful of us that went to F&S with Birgitte that Sunday. I tried to meet up with Birgitta this time, but they are off in NY with their play. (If you have the opportunity to see it, you should. It's well-done. Baby it's You is the name.)

What else is new? Well, I think our dog is retarded. No, I'm not kidding. The poor guy barks at shadows. In the middle of the night. Whenever someone goes to the sink, or any time light goes across the ceiling. Poor Dobby, he leaps to the bed from half way across the room, and about 25% of the time, he misses the bed. LOL.

I do have some big sewing plans though that WILL be executed. I am going to Uganda again this year, but this time in June as opposed to April. We will be getting a couple of women set up in their own sewing business. We will be working with women in the city of Kampala for about a week, and then in the villages of Busanna and Kasana for the second week. I will be giving more information about that as our plans start to unfold. I do know we are planning on leaving June 12.

My sewing room is an absolute disaster. I have burned through the water hose on 2 gravity feed irons in the past year, (actually, I did one and my daughter did the other)so we finally ended up getting Sunbeam or something and it works just fine. I can't seem to find anyone who can fix/replace the water hose. I have bought a little fabric, but not lots since my cabinet is more than full. I better get busy and start sewing something!! Here are some of the fabrics I picked up in LA. These are all rayon crepes.

Endless Combinations - skirt

2010-11-21T14:24:00.000-08:00

I am doing the "Endless Combinations" contest at PR. I haven't done a contest in a long time, because I am too competitive (with myself) and tend to put too much pressure on myself. But, this time, I am not going to do that and I am just entering the contest as a motivator to move some fabrics OUT of the fabric closet. For this reason, I am ALSO going to enter the Fabric Stash contest at PR in January. Now, I have no inclination to win that one because I want to take my time to make some nice things and will be doing that simultaneously with the SWAP - which I will write more about later. I will, however, be making everything for the SWAP from my stash. For those of you unfamiliar with the "swap" there is absolutely no swapping going on - it's just an acronym for Sewing With A Plan/Purpose.

Anyway, for the EC, you make one garment, and the second must go with the first. The third, and each subsequent garment must go with a previously made garment, but they do not necessarily have to all go together. I am starting with a plan, but not sure which direction I'll take.

I posted my fabric and patterns in the last post. I have made the skirt, and the pants are finished as well.

The skirt is McCalls 5523. I am really happy with the pattern and am sure i will make it again. I need to take it in just a little bit more at the waist, though.

Next I will make the ivory top. The other day I bought Butterick 5387 and planned on using that. The fabric that I have is a thin silk blend sweater knit from Casual Elegance. But, after reading all of the reviews for this pattern on PR, I've decided against it. I like the line drawing, but am not so sure I am that enamored with any of the finished tops I've seen. Also, everyone has said that the neck treatment is a pain. I will probably try the top in the future, but for now, it is going on the back burner. Instead, I think I will be using the top from the FSG twinset, and just changing the neck a little bit.

Decisions

2010-11-15T19:01:00.000-08:00

Well, I've decided on a break-up. A break-up with Burda magazine that is. I have loved my Burda magazines and still do. But, in the last year I have not made a single thing from the 2010 issues. Not only that, I am unhappy with the new printing of the patterns (twice as many pieces on a single sheet) and the price has gone up. I really considered giving it another year, but really, there has not been much in the last year that I want to make. I have about 3 years worth of the magazines, so I have plenty to keep me busy. Besides that, I also have pattern boxes full of Vogue, Simplicity, McCalls, Butterick, New Look, and KwikSew plus numerous independents such as Fashion Sewing Group, La Fred, Pamela's Patterns, Loes Hinse, etc. Do I really need to buy MORE patterns that I have no where to store? I think not. I will miss getting my monthly Burda fix, but I'll get over it.

Next Decision - I've decided to enter two contests. The Endless Combinations on Pattern Review which is currently running, and the SWAP (Sewing with a Plan) on Stitcher's Guild. That one doesn't start until the end of next month. I haven't done any contests for a while, but for me they are good motivators.

So, here is my plan for Endless combinations

First - the herringbone pants. I will be using the Loes Hinse Oxford Pant pattern for these. I saw these pants in her shop and really liked them. I really like this herringbone fabric. I had to buy extra because it was in pieces and there wasn't one piece long enough to make the pants. I will use the extra to make a skirt.

Next, an ivory knit top. I haven't decided which pattern I'll use yet, but it will be simple with long sleeves.

Third item will be a skirt from the herringbone fabric. Again, I don't know which pattern I'll use, because it will depend on how much of the herringbone I have and what shaped pieces are left over from the pants.

Next up will probably be an orange T shirt. I'm planning on using the Marcy Tilton pattern for those. I will actually be making the one that is shown in orange

After that, I will be making the Garbo jacket from the Green Moss fabric. It is a bulky sweater knit. Loes also had these made up in her shop, although she used the Biarratz pattern, but the tweak made it look just like the Garbo.

The last item I will probably make are the Hepburn pants. I have never made pants like these before, but I'm going to give them a try. One of the views eliminates the paperbag waist, so I'm sure I'll be doing that.

I have other items that also want to make to go with this plan, but I always want to do more than I have time to do. Also, since the SWAP will be coming up soon, I will have to take a little break inbetween the two just to get other non-sewing stuff done!

A couple of new tops

2010-11-13T20:59:00.000-08:00

I decided to make this top again. I first made it (with the tie neck) about 3 years ago. It is still the shirt I grab most often on the weekends. The first time I made it in a natural colored linen and it is just so super comfortable that I love it. I decided to try it again. I want to figure out which clothes I gravitate toward most often in my wardrobe and why. Is it the style? The fabric? The color? the fit? I want to figure this out so that the clothes that I make will be things I will wear all the time. This time I made the top in a crinkle rayon. It is a mini navy and white houndstooth, but it's really hard to see that in the picture. I KNOW that I have to wear fabrics that feel good. I have some cute tops that I purchased over the years that I never wear just because I don't like the way the fabric feels. Rayon is one of my favorite fabrics. It is usually soft, drapes well, and breathes. This is the old Textile Studios Marseilles top pattern.

The other top I made this week is a Marcy Tilton pullover. It is Vogue 1085. The fabric is a deliciously soft rayon knit that I bought at Josephine's when we had PR weekend in Portland. I'm really happy with this top. It is interesting that this top has a little weight in the front to pull the neckline down against the body. It really works well.

Marcy Tiltion Pants

2010-10-26T21:41:00.000-07:00

About 2 years ago I made these pants and have worn them to death.

I decided to make another pair, but this time the longer version. I also made these out of wool. The last pair were super big in the back, so this time, I took out about 2" from the back side. There is still plenty of room. I like the first pair a little better and that could be due to one of three reasons

the first pair was the short version and therefore have a different shape. Showing the ankle is more flattering with this style pant
the first pair were fuller in the back, which changed the drape of the pants. Also the first pair was a poly rayon blend, but these are wool and actually have better drape than the first pair.
I'm much fatter now!

Well, all of that being said, I really do love my new pants. They are unique and were very fun to sew since they have unusual seaming and details. Not a fast pair of pants because of all of the top stitching, but I was able to put them together in 2 evenings.

Here you can see the pocket detail. The side front pants leg is made in two parts. The front/bottom part folds under to create the pocket facing. The upper/under part makes the back of the pocket.

Another little detail is the darts at the knee. Just keeps it interesting I think.

Wristers

2010-10-24T21:26:00.001-07:00

I've been doing a little sewing this week and will have more on that in a couple of days. In the mean time, school seems to be getting worse and worse every year, but thankfully, I have a great class and love my students. Now, if I could just teach...

But let's not go there!!! While I was in Tennessee, I was wishing I could do some sewing, but I thought it would be fun to do a crochet project. Something I could do and still be around everyone visiting. I decided to make some "wristers" We didn't have internet access at the log cabin, but fortunately, I had my trusty iphone. I went to the Lion Brand site and found a pattern for the kind of arm warmers I was looking for. It didn't take long to make them. ( I also made a scarf, which I'll show later) Anyway I made the "Windy City Wristers" and they were a big hit with DD when I got home, so I made some for her. And one of her friends. And another pair for myself. And another pair for DD! As you can see, these are a big hit with all of us, and it isn't even cold yet! I've been wanting fingerless gloves, because I hate for my hands to be cold, but need to be able to write, type, etc. These are perfect and SO simple to make. You basically crochet a rectangle and then sew up the side leaving a hole for the thumb. How simple is that?

Just in from Tennessee

2010-10-19T20:29:00.000-07:00

Just had a great week long visit with my brother and his family in Tennessee. I really wanted/needed to relax, and that is exactly what I did! We did take a little drive over to Lynchburg and toured the Jack Daniel's distillery. I'm not a whiskey drinker, but it was very interesting.

I also visited the local fabric store, Sirs Fabrics. I have heard that people come from other states to visit this store, but if they are, they are going for the home dec. They did have a great selection of home dec fabrics and trims. Rooms and rooms. Fashion fabric? Not so much. What they did have was folded on tables and labeled things like "lining", "wool blends", "dress fabrics" etc. This kind of thing drives me crazy because I want to know what I'm buying. The prices were really cheap, but I didn't see anything I was even interested in. Of course, this may have to do with the fact that my fabric closet is stuffed full and I'm not seeming to find much time for sewing. Usually a week off is filled with sewing, but since I was gone, this did not happen. I did crochet a scarf and pair of "wristers" that I will post later. I had planned on coming home from work tonight and doing some sewing, but ended up making something to eat, cleaning the kitchen and changing the sheets instead. Maybe tomorrow...

no-sewing weekend

2010-10-03T19:24:00.000-07:00

I really wanted to get some sewing done this weekend, but I was really just feeling under the weather and actually accomplished just about nothing all weekend. I did take the above picture with my phone Friday evening in my driveway. The sky was beautiful.

I did get as far as cutting a swatch of wool that I bought last year and washing it to check for how much shrinkage. The 4" swatch shrank 1/4 inch, so that would be about 2-1/4" per yard if washed. I don't think I will wash these pants, but They will probably shrink at least 1/2 that amount from steaming. I would like to make these Marcy Tilton pants. I made the shorter version once about 2 years ago and I've worn them so much that they are pilling and looking pretty sad. The other ones are a linen blend, but since I have this wool in my closet, these will be wool!

New Bianca

2010-09-26T17:41:00.000-07:00

I made another Bianca top today. This time I added 1/4" to the shoulders, and added about 1/4 " to each side seam at the hip. I made the sleeves and bottom hem all 2" longer. I also used the coverstitch to do the hems to provide more elasticity. This time I traced the longer sleeve which is wider at the elbow, and then cut it off at the desired length. This sleeve is much more comfortable than the previous one.

You can see here that the neckline is just serged and turned under. I did use the coverstitch on the hems though.

Before I cut this out, I decided I would line it up with a Christine Johnson top that fits me well. It is from the basewear 2 pattern. Surprisingly, the shoulder slant is already there and matched perfectly my altered shoulder on this top! No wonder I liked the fit of that one so much. The biggest difference is that the CJ has a higher armscye and at least 2" in on each side at the waist for shaping! This top is pretty straight. Unfortunately, I have gained about 10 pounds since I made the CJ tops, so this is probably a better fit for me right now.

I saw a post on Cidell's blog about her serger being out of commission right now. It got me to thinking about how much I use mine. I think my serger is one of the best sewing investments I have made. I bought it about 20 years ago, and it doesn't have any special feet or even a differential. It just serges. I can use left or right needle or both, and can do a flatlock or rolled hem. That's it. Nothing fancy. But it has definitely been a workhorse and I use it on almost everything I sew.

Bianca top

2010-09-24T16:40:00.000-07:00

I've been working on this Bianca top. I love the fabric which is a rayon jersey. I made this without prewashing, allowing for a little shrinking in length. I did prewash a test 4X4 inch square, and it only shrank in length. Let me tell you, it was SO much easier working with this knit without it being prewashed. The edges didn't curl and it had more body, so it was easy to work with.

I was not happy with the neckline on this. You can't really see it in the picture, but I feel like it did not fit right for some reason. It fit better today than it did last night. Must have been the different bra haha! I decided last night that I would cut off the neck and do it over. I wanted to get a picture first so I could ask your opinions on the before and after. since I cut off the already hemmed neckline, this was a total removal of about 3/4 inch. I think I like the way it looks better now, but I've looked at it so much now that I'm not sure if I can tell if there is a difference or not. I'd like to make it again, so I'd like to know what you think about the neckline and which is more flattering. Also, next time I will widen the arm a bit and lengthen it about 2 inches

I feel like a stranger in a foreign land

2010-09-21T21:20:00.000-07:00

Today I pulled up my beloved bloglines to catch up my blog reading only to find out that as of October first, there will be no more Bloglines! OMG - my immediate thought was, "how will I access all my favorite blogs?" At one time I had them all listed in my blogroll, but it is so much easier to just click them into bloglines, that I have been keeping track of all of you out there that way. It was simple enough to export all of my blog feeds into an OPML following the instructions on Bloglines, and then I imported them into Google reader. But now I am lost. I no longer see the current pictures without opening the blogs. I can't figure out where I'm going or what I'm doing. OK, I only gave it 5 minutes, but still.
Work has been so crazy that I haven't been keeping up with my blogs the way I like to. Now it's going to take me even longer to figure the whole Google Reader thing.

So what do the rest of you do to keep up with your blog reading. Also, since I have an iphone, is there a good reader out there any of you are using that also has an iphone app?

I Like It, I Like It!

2010-09-19T19:55:00.000-07:00

Finished the Garbo tonight. Even though this fabric is really too limp for the jacket, I still like the way it turned out. It doesn't have enough body to completely hide the shoulder pads, but it does hang nicely other than that.

It took forever to straighten the grain on this fabric (a rayon acetate blend) and I finally ended up cutting along a thread crosswise and thread tracing along a thread at the fold line. It was extra work, but I'm really glad I did it. When something as loose as this is off grain, it will really pull and twist.

After altering the paper pattern just to raise the shoulder at the neck point (boy that was a quick and easy alteration - so nice not to fiddle with all the darts and tweaking) I laid out the pattern with weights. I traced around it with a marker and then cut with shears. Since the fabric is such a loose weave, I knew snip marks would not show, so I marked the notches with painters tape. This removed easily and did not leave any marks on the fabric.

Instead of using facings, I just turned under the neckline. First I serged it with 3 threads using the left rather than the right needle. I serged 1/4" clear elastic to the edge which stabilizes the seam. It does not show since the edge is turned under and stitched down.

The buttons took forever! The fabric is too loose to support buttons or button holes, so I covered snaps with silk organza and then sewed the buttons on the outside. The top snap looks best since I used two layers of organza. However, it is also the most difficult to snap, so after doing that one, I decided to use only one layer on the other ones. If I find that the snapping gets easier, then I may go back and cover the others with 2 layers. It just looks better to not have the snap showing through so much. When I looked at the jackets in Loes's shop, she told me that she covered her snaps with chiffon.

I really like how this turned out and I must say that I am happy with the fit. I really could not imagine making this without doing a FBA or at least adding a dart. How simple is this?

In my last post, Linda T asked, "How does a class like this work? Is it a "work though at your own pace?" Let us know how you like it." The online "seminar" is really just a PDF with a lot of instructions. I think there was a lot of good information included. Loes is really big on NOT washing fabric before you sew on it. There are other designers that feel the same way and there has been a lot of discussion on this topic off and on on several of the sewing boards. I haven't taken the leap of faith yet, but I do plan on doing it on the next couple of garments I make and see how I like the results. (This is also discussed in some detail in some of Loes's literature.)

All in all, I'm really happy with this jacket. Also shown in the photo above are the Oxford pants which I made out of some cheap fabric last year. Although I really like the pants, I hate cheap fabric. The pants look good from a distance, but they are already pilling and have snags. Very annoying.

A New Garbo

2010-09-14T20:12:00.000-07:00

Last weekend when I was in Loes Hinse's shop, I noticed that all of her jackets were what she calls "cardiganized". In other words, no lining, no separate facings in the back, and the front is extended 1-1/2 " and turned under for a self facing. She is using a lot of knits and loose wovens for a super light feel. She feels the facings cause pulling and give an unflattering look for her flowy style. (even though the patterns include facings.)
Tonight, I cut out a pattern for the Garbo jacket using her fit tips and cardiganizing the pattern. Wow! What could be simpler? Only 3 pieces, no facings, no darts. Normally I do an FBA, forward shoulder, wider at the hips, and narrow shoulder. I would normally have added a dart and/or lowered the front hem. This time I cut a straight small with the only adjustment being adding 1/2" inch at the neckline on the front shoulder.

The fabric I am using is a very loose weave rayon acetate blend. It may be too unstable for this, but we will see. It is an ivory/oatmeal color with a "linen" weave. I really like it and it is soft and silky feeling.

I also purchased an online "seminar" from the Casual Elegance Website called "Sewing with Loes 2000" She recommended this one to me because it has all of the information she gave me on pants fitting. It also has information on stabilizing, her philosophy, fabric choice, sewing processes and laying out the pattern and cutting. Even though I am an experienced sewer, I found it good information and worth the price, which was $35.00.

Loes Hinse

2010-09-12T10:30:00.000-07:00

I've known for months that my husband was doing a triathlon this weekend in Pacific Grove/Montery. So my first thought? Loes Hinse's studio is in Carmel, and I'd really like to go! I talked to Andy about it before we left, and he was all for it. So, after a few phone calls, and a good GPS, we made our way to Loes's studio.
I had talked to Sharon Lyon's on the phone earlier when I could not get ahold of Loes. I had told her that I was having some fit issues, so really wanted to get into the boutique and try on the clothes to see what I needed to do. Well, she spoke to Loes before I got there, so Loes was expecting me and my "fit issues" I always thought I could not wear the jackets because of having a full bust (34DD) and the patterns have no darts. I also thought I have narrow, sloping, forward shoulders and wide hips. OK, I do have the wide hips, but come to find out, the forward shoulder is not really my issue at all, but the sloping. Also, I always tried to correct the sloping by lowering the shoulder at the armscye. Loes showed me how raising the shoulder at the neckline would release the fabric that was causing wrinkles in the front of the garments. This also stops the jackets/tops from hiking up in the front. I can hardly wait to get home and try it.

It was great visiting with Loes. Not only did she help me with this top issue, she also gave me suggestions for the best pant and top patterns for my body type (which is very similar to hers, but she's smaller) She gave me tips on how to deal with the waistband because of sway back and how to do a rotation alter for a longer rise in the pants. She suggested the oxford (which I have) and the Hepburn(which I'm ordering) because of the fact that my thighs are larger in the front and wider on the sides than my hips. The best jacket length for me is the shorter. In her store, all of the tops right now are the bianca.

I also got to see the new jacket, top, and pants designs. The jacket is very much like the ascot, but the neckline and collar are a little different. The top (which also includes a dress) is sort of a wider shoulder tank. She was wearing the new pants are very wide. I think she is calling these the "Cabo", but I can't remember exactly. She asked me to share the following things:
The princess tank has been reissued and will only be available at Casual Elegance. In fact, all of her new patterns, which will be on heavier paper, will only be available through CE. Patterns that are at other vendors, once they are sold out, will no longer be available unless they are under a reissue. The Capri pant is the next to be reprinted. I think the jacket is coming out next, and then the pants and the top/dress. She will not even be selling her own patterns through her site - all will be offered through Casual Elegance. The skirt, which was pretty interesting when I saw it in person - not a typical wrap as it looks in the pix - is only available through download.
All in all, I'm so glad I finally got to get in to Loes's shop, and I can't wait to make some new clothes. I saw all (or most) of the fabrics that are available through CE right now, and I love them. Last night I placed an order for fabric to make a jacket, pants, and a couple of tops. I had to order the pants fabric in 2 pieces, so I hope I may have enough left over to make a skirt.

V is for Vest

2010-09-06T21:31:00.001-07:00

I have been wanting to make a vest for about 3 years now, and just havent done it. Well, I did make a reversible SafTPockets vest a couple of years ago, but that didn't turn out very well. It was way too big and I only wore it one time and gave it away. Anyway, this is exactly the kid of vest I have been wanting to make. I found this pattern in the May BWOF of 2009. It also has another version with a collar and cap sleeves which I really like.

From Fall2010

This pattern is for a woven, but I had about a yard of ponte knit left over from the last skirt that I wanted to use. Since I was using a knit instead of a woven, I did not cut it out on the bias as the pattern calls for. I debated leaving it unlined, but decided it wouldn't really be much extra work to line it, and I always like lined things better anyway. This lining is left over from a skirt I made a couple of years ago. It actually was the lining for the skirt. Unfortunately, I am too fat to wear the skirt now, but I love that skirt and am hanging onto it with high hopes of fitting into it again.

From Fall2010

I am taking a trip to Tennessee in October to visit my brother, so I am trying to put together a few things that will travel well and fit the weather there. It is still HOT here, but I'm thinking it will probably be cool in Tennessee in the fall. I think this vest will get a lot of use.

It's Here

2010-08-31T21:18:00.000-07:00

I got my copy in the mail today and I LOVE it. I think I'll end up reading this cover to cover.

Another NL6977

2010-08-29T19:06:00.000-07:00

I made this top a week or so ago, andI finally finished this little skirt today. This should have only taken me a couple of hours to cut and sew, but instead, it took me several days. First of all, I sewed the waistband to the hem instead of the top edge! Not only that, I sewed it. Removing serging is hard enough, but on a black knit, it is almost impossible. Well, I finally finished that today and sewed the skirt back together. Another problem is that the skirt is a bit short. I picked up some hem facing lace and turned up about 1/2 inch and sewed on the hem lace. So, this quick little project, was not so quick. Nevertheless, I really like the skirt and might make another. It's super comfortable because of being a knit and because of the wide waistband. Now, don't think I'm actually running around looking like this.

I'm actually running around looking more like this. I am still wearing a brace on my leg and going to physical therapy twice a week to build up more strength in my leg to support my knee. It's getting better and better though.

I have a lot of things on my list of what I want to sew right now. I do have fabric to make another knit skirt (the fuller version from the same pattern) and a pair of pants. I think I'll finish those off before I start something new.

I am really wanting to make that knit blazer that I talked about before, and picked up some light gray knit from JoAnns the other day. It is a cotton lycra rib, and has exactly the look I want. However, I would have preferred to find a rayon blend knit, but I haven't found any in the medium gray color I wanted. Today it was actually cool (in the 80s) and so it really made me want to start sewing for fall. Unfortunately, it will be back in the high 90s by mid week, so I'm sure I'll probably want to make another hot weather garment.

Swan Lake Like You've Never Seen It!

2010-08-17T15:18:00.000-07:00

I'm not a huge ballet fan, but this is incredible.

New Look 6977

2010-08-13T20:55:00.000-07:00

Today I made this little top. I bought this pattern last spring and found this fabric in San Diego. I have another knit that I will make into it next, but I need to get some orange thread. :)
I think the fabric on this one looks nice and would look great with a black skirt

I actually want to make all the pieces in this pattern because they all look simple and easy to wear. I have some knit that I was going to make a skirt out of today, but I wanted to make the longer fuller skirt and the ponte knit that I have is too heavy. It would be right for the straight skirt though. Actually, the straight skirt would probably look better with the fabric in this top anyway.

There were several things I liked about this pattern.
First of all, it only takes one yard of fabric!
Next: raglan sleeves - nothing easier.
Third, the neckline band. It gives a nice touch

I used a good quality polyester knit that I purchased in San Diego this past spring. It looks like a border print, but it's really a stripe.

I used a 10 at the neck and tapered to a 14 at the hips. Next time I will narrow the upper back by taking off 1/4" at the seam that attaches to the sleeve. I have narrow shoulders and a narrow upper back. I should have thought of this the first time.

This is a great knit top with a little something extra. The neckline in this top has a couple of nice features. First of all, it has a band around the neckline. This would also look nice in a contrasting color. On the inside, there is elastic and a very small dart in the band. Be careful not to have your elastic come into the seam allowance or it will be difficult to get a neat looking dart. Also, if you are large busted, you will need to increase the length of the elastic. I added an inch in length to the bust area and should have done the same thing with the elastic. Next time, I will.

I have a cover stitch machine, but do not use it very often. Today I moved it next to my sewing machine (it used to be in another room with my serger. Now they are both in the sewing room) to force myself how to use it more. I used it to finish the hem and sleeve hems. I have always had trouble taking fabric out of the cover stitch without unraveling or puckering the seam.. I have read all about it, but it just was not working for me without releasing the lever underneath the needle plate. Then I watched this video on UTube, and it finally made sense to me. I hope I will start using this more because I really like the look it gives and it is a lot easier to do than the twin needle.I used the coverstitch to do the hem on the bottom and sleeves.

First Bathing Suit

2010-08-11T10:38:00.000-07:00

I actually made a bathing suit! Kwik Sew 3503 is the pattern I used. The fabric I got from Sewing Studio Fabrics a couple of years ago. I picked up the swimsuit lining from JoAnns. I'm really pleased how this turned out and it was so simple to make. I like how the lining has elastic under the bust to make it fit better. I will definitely make this again! Next time (I forgot to do it this time) I will add 1" across the fullest part of the bust in length to accommodate for full bust. The only adjustments I made on this was to cut a small in the upper back. Both the front and the back I cut the height of the medium and tapered to a large in width at the hips, but only cut the full length of the medium. For my measurements, it worked out perfectly.

The other day I was on the JJill website and saw this knit blazer. I love the professional look, but also the casual ease of the look. Although I love the look of high heels, skinny jeans, and short skirts, none of these looks work for my body type or my bad feet. I was really inspired looking through their site at the combinations of pieces for fall. This is a look that I can really wear, be appropriate for work, and be comfortable. I even have some fabrics that I think will be perfect.

I'm also really digging this relaxed menswear look this season and starting to plan out some things I would like to make for fall.

I started a thread on PR about the knit blazer and got some great suggestions for patterns. I ordered a Christine Johnson pattern and 2 Kwik Sew Patterns.

This second pattern is actually for wovens, but I have some great wools I would love to try this in.

this last one is the Christine Johnson pattern. It also comes with a boatneck shell

I also think I will be making a few longer cardigans this year. I have 3 favorite patterns the first one is from Pamela's patterns. It is not really a favorite yet, since all I have made from this so far is the top. I'd also like to try the cropped cardi on this one.

Nancy Erickson's FSG cardigan pattern is a favorite and I have made it before. I have some plum colored sweater knit that I'd like to use for this one. Her patterns do have great instructions and always turn out nicely.

This New Look pattern is very similar to the FSG pattern. I have made this one as well.

Right now I have a couple of things fighting their way for the top of my sewing table, including 2 UFO jackets. We'll see what comes up next!

jazz dress

2010-08-10T15:16:00.000-07:00

I finally got to do some sewing! I spent a lot of time this summer reorganizing and rearranging my sewing room. I'm not done, but at least it is back to being functional again. I'd really like to paint in there, but that will have to wait a couple of months.

I saw on Carolyn's blog that there is a sewalong for Butterick 5147

I have had this pattern for a long time, but never got around to making it. Although I did not join the sew-along, I decided to go for it. Last spring I bought some fabric with jazz instruments on it and even bought lining to go along with it. So, since I already had everything I needed, including the invisible zipper and thread, I had nothing to hold me back!

It took me a few hours to trace out this pattern even though it was only 2 pieces. I have trouble doing a FBA on dresses with vertical and horizontal darts and making them look smooth. I still didn't get it exactly right on this one, but I think I've got the adjustments down now so that the next time it will look even better. I also did a high round back adjustment, a swayback adjustment, and had to go up from a 10 to a 16 from shoulder to hip. Making the right combination of alterations in the right order can make a big difference in fit.

This dress has a slit in the back and the instructions for the lining give it a nice finish. I like the fact that it is completely lined and I am happy with the way the invisible zipper turned out. All in all, I'm pretty happy with the dress. I will make it again, but I will go about an inch shorter next time.

Next up = I'm working on this bathing suit. I am going to make the strapless maillot version.
It's Kwiksew 3503

Quilting on the cheap

2010-07-24T20:54:00.000-07:00

That's probably an oxymoron. Quilting is not cheap. Not really. However, there are some things you can do to save you some bucks. I know a lot of quilters who have either spent a lot of money, or a lot of money and time creating a "design wall." The local quilt shop has a couple of design walls in the workroom so you can lay up your pieces and arrange them the way you want them. I have no such thing at home, but what I do have is batting. That's right, I pinned a large piece of batting to the wall and all of my quilt pieces stick to it without even using any pins. This works even better than the design wall at the quilt store because it does not need pins. Well, you want to start using pins when you are sewing larger sections of the quilt together because then they are just too heavy and fall off. Another advantage of my "design wall" is that I can unpin it from the wall and roll it up with all the pieces on it if I am going to take it anywhere to work on it.

So, I have most of the blocks sewn into strips, and even some of the strips sewn together. I have to decide how big I am going to make this quilt. The size shown in the book does not match any of the quantities listed for the patterns. I find this a lot in quilt books. The book will tell you how many blocks or strips you need for either crib, twin or queen size, but often times if you count the blocks on the picture, they will not line up exactly with the finished sizes given in the book!

I think what I am going to do is work from the two opposite corners and work my way to the middle. That way I can still make it bigger if I want to by just adding some additional strips at the longest diagonal.

At this point, I want to hurry up and finish the top of this quilt. I'm really feeling the need to make some clothes for work. School starts for teachers on August 2 in my district (students come on the 5th). I will be there for the 3 days before students come because I can sit most of the day. I am not ready to stand up all day long, which is exactly what I will be doing as soon as I go back to my classroom. Right now I have until the 23 of August per the doctor. I hope I can build up enough strength in my knee and stamina to stand all day by that time. Not that I'm all that anxious to go back to work, but I really don't want to miss any more work than I have to either.

A Little Stripping

2010-07-18T12:24:00.000-07:00

I've been wanting to sew for the last few days. And I can. I can sit in a chair and sew. I can stand at the ironing board if I'm careful. But, I keep walking into the sewing room, pulling out fabric and patterns, and then walking out. I've been feeling uninspired. I keep having ideas of what I want to do, but then, I can't seem to find exactly what I want to do it. I do think I have fabric and pattern picked out for a Vogue knit dress, but I don't want to cut it out. What to do?

Well, I decided I would work on the quilt I cut out over a year ago for my daughter and haven't worked on in about that long. Yesterday I started finishing the strips and today I finished the strips and am working on cutting them into squares. My 1/4 inch seam is never perfect, even though I've tried a couple of 1/4" feet. I think I let the fabric get to close to the guide, so my seams are a little wide. I tried moving the needle over farther, but I don't want it so close to the presser foot that it hits it! I just need to keep practicing.

I hope to finish cutting the squares today. I need to get more fabric for the side triangles, but I can probably start sewing the rows together and add the side triangles at the end. Who knows, maybe I will actually finish this before Christmas :-)

From Grace's Quilt

On the mend

2010-07-14T08:38:00.000-07:00

Well, I had knee surgery almost a week ago. I haven't been doing any sewing. In fact, I haven't been doing much of anything! My leg is in a machine that keeps it moving most of the day, and when I'm not doing that, I'm in the living room with my foot up watching TV. In fact, I have watched over 30 episodes of Grey's Anatomy!! The good news is, I feel like everything is healing quickly and I'm not really in any pain. The doctor said the surgery went really well. We thought I had a torn ACL, but actually, the ACL was totally gone and they had to build a new one. I had this done about 8 years ago on my other leg, but this time it is going much better.

Last night, I did go into the sewing room, clear off the cutting table, and pull out some fabric. I keep changing my mind about what to make. I want to make PANTS! Of course, my leg is in a huge brace, so I probably won't even get to wear pants for a couple of months. I'm pretty sure I'm going to make a dress next. I will be wearing a lot of dresses for a while - which is a good thing. It is very hot here, so dresses are the coolest thing to wear. Also, I really, really need to make a dent in my stash

From Summer 2010

That top row is all fabric for jackets and coats. The next shelf down is knits, except for the far left stack, which is misc novelty fabric.
The third row is cotton, rayon, and linen;
the fourth row is woolens and suit weight blends.
The bottom shelf is denim, a box of linings, and muslin fabric.

I have a couple of other boxes and baskets with fabrics as well. I need to get everything to fit in this cabinet! So, I'm hoping to get busy sewing SOON.
Unfortunately, my surgery was on my right knee. I have to keep it elevated and the brace keeps me from bending my knee. I'm either going to have to learn to sew left footed, or use the push button feature on my machine!

BWOF 06-2009 strapless top

2010-07-02T11:01:00.000-07:00

Well, first of all, just let me say that it will always be BWOF to me. I don't care that they changed their name, I will probably always think "BWOF" Besides, who wants to go back to each issue and think "Oh, is this Burdastyle or BWOF?" Anyway, back to the top.

I had seen another review for this on PR and decided to check it out. I had fabric that I knew would work and the only thing I had to buy was the elastic.

I'm really glad I made this top. I had a few little struggles and put it aside for a couple of days. But, finally, I figured out what to do and got it finished. I'll probably wear it tomorrow to a Fourth of July BBQ since it will be hot outside for sure.OK, here was the problem, due to my "wrong-thinking" I decided that since this was a strapless top and there were no shoulders or upper bust area to worry about that I would just go by bust size. Well, that wasn't a good idea. While the top circumference is fine, I needed more room in the front and less in the back. Consequently, the side seams are slightly forward, but not noticeably. The big thing is that there was not enough fabric to go over the bust. Had I tissue fit this, I would have seen that. but, since the front of bodice was already sewn together (6 layers of fabric) I did not want to take it apart and cut a new underbodice piece. I did make the bodice lining bigger and I figured that would work if I did not attach the lining to the bodice at the bottom and used the lining more like a shelf bra. But, the more I thought about it, I didn't think that was what I wanted to do. Instead, I added a 2" wide strip at the bottom of the bodice, sewed it with a 1/2" seam, and then cut it away to nothing at the side seams. This worked, but only because it was a knit and the darts are covered with the crossover pieces. The darts are too high. But in this top, it's no big deal. It still fits great and is very comfortable.

One thing different about this pattern is the way the elastic is done. The lining is sewn to the bodice and then the lining is turned up and sewn at the edge of the seam allowance for a casing. Since I only used 1/2" seam allowances instead of 5/8", it made it a little tricky. The pattern called for 3/16" elastice, but I used 1/4". If I make this again, I may use 3/8" elastic for a little more strength.

This is a great pattern and sews together pretty quickly if you don't screw around with it like I did. There are LOTS of layers in the bodice, so be sure and use a very thin knit. The knit I used reminds me of "onionskin" - it was a mystery knit that I picked up at a cheap price in San Diego a couple of weeks ago. It never even made it into the fabric cabinet! (I wish I would do that more often.

I'm really in a sewing mood and would love to make up about a dozen knit tops of different styles, but I've been spending most of my time getting my classroom in order and now it will be my house. I am having knee surgery on Wednesday and I am the only one in my house who drives right now. I guess I'm going to have to learn to sew with my left foot since the surgery will be on my right knee :-)

OH! I got this in the mail the other day. Now I have something to look forward to reading while I'm stuck with my leg in a machine :-)

next up

2010-06-27T21:50:00.000-07:00

Well, the dress was a hit at the wedding and I am SO glad that I had a strapless dress to wear. The weather was 100 plus degrees and the wedding was outside. Although we were able to sit in the shade during the ceremony, our table was in the sun. We finally all moved the table into the shade, but that was after sitting in the sun for about one hour. Anyway, needless to say, it was HOT, but I stayed as cool as possible.

I guess this has me in the strapless mood now. I've seen a couple of good reviews on PR for this Burda top (I guess we can't way BWOF anymore.) It is from June 2009 #113. I have some mystery fabric that I bought in San Diego last week that is similar to onion skin. I'm about 1/2 way done, so we'll see how it goes!

Vogue 8184 - Strapless Dress finished

2010-06-26T21:16:00.000-07:00

Well, I barely finished this in time to wear to the wedding this evening, but I'm glad I did. I won't be making the black and white one anytime soon because I just found out that I have to have leg surgery, so my next week and a half will be spent scrambling around trying to get everything in my classroom and home in order (somewhat) because it is a long recovery from ACL surgery. I am not looking forward to it at all. I had the same surgery done on the other leg about 10 years ago and what I remember is waking up in a LOT of pain the day after surgery and it being a very long time before I could get back to a normal life. I will have to take 4-6 weeks off work, but fortunately, I am getting it done soon, so I will only miss about 2 weeks of work, hopefully. Unfortunately, I am starting a new grade this year, so I have no idea what I'm doing as far as planning for a sub (or even myself.)

Well, back to the dress. I ended up putting a lot more effort into this dress than the pattern called for, but I'm glad I did. I really could play volley ball in this dress and not have to worry about it. At the wedding this evening I saw MANY women in strapless dresses, and I also saw many of them, including the bride, tugging at their dresses. I never had to even think about tugging on mine. I did wear a strapless bra with it, but if I had made the top a little tighter, I would not have had to even do that. (and I NEVER go braless) I was so afraid that this was going to be too tight, so I think I ended up making it a little too loose. Even still, this dress fits well and between the pattern designs and the tips I learned in the Kenneth King bustier class really produced a well-made dress.

Here you can see that the boning is sewn at every vertical seam (except the zipper seam), The waist stay, in this case 1"wide polyester grossgrain ribbon, is hand sewn to the boning only. I also sewed a strip of organza ribbon along the top edge of the bodice to prevent any stretching. KK recommends either twill tape or strips of silk organza selvedge. I thought the twill tape would be too bulky, and I didn't have enough organza selvedge, so I thought I would try the organza ribbon since I already had it on had. That worked perfectly.

The skirt on this dress is rather full, but has a 1.25" hem. Usually this ends up in some pleating or "gathering" of the upper edge of the hem. This time I took my time and really used the iron and a spray mist bottle (the steam iron sagas are another story or two) and the skirt edge eased in perfectly with no puckers.

I think there is something weird with this picture because the zipper looks like it doesn't meet at the top. Actually, it does. I put this zipper in by hand because my centered zippers suck. I always put in a lapped zipper, but then it always makes it tricky to get the lining, or even a facing to lie flat and cover the zipper tape but allow you to zip the zipper all the way up. So, if you have a good tip on that for me, let me know. ANyway, this is a hand picked zipper, because I knew I would need a very strong zipper (thinking that it would be tighter than it was) At PR weekend LA a couple of years ago, we had Susan Khalje teach us some couture stitches and I remember her saying that a hand picked zipper is the strongest zipper application.

I'm glad I learned some of the tips from Jennifer Stearn's embroidery class and got the placement for this embroidery exactly where I wanted it. I wore the dress at the wedding tonight and it was comfortable easy to wear. I definitely want to make another one of these again.

A mess!

2010-06-23T17:25:00.000-07:00

Since I am doing this dress without a collar or ribbon trim, I decided I would do some machine embroidery on the front. I am taking the online class from Robin Stearn at Pattern Review and have already learned some great tips. I did a practice piece, and it came out perfectly

Unfortunately, when I did the real deal on my dress bodice this morning, my machine decided to throw a fit and mess it all up!!! Fortunately, I have one scrap barely big enough to recut the center front bodice piece and start over. If it messes up again, I'm sunk!

So, this dress may end up being the "wedding" dress after all. It is taking a little longer than I expected (too many interruptions and machine malfunctions), so I can't imagine that I will have time to make dress number two. Also, I could not get enough of the fabric I needed for dress #2, and when I went to Fresno today to see if they had any (their computers said they did) they did not. I have some creative ideas on how to "make it work", but of course, that will take additional time. I really wanted a black and white dress to wear to the wedding since the theme is black and white, but it looks like I'll be wearing peacock blue and black - if I finish this dress!

Starting the strapless

2010-06-22T20:41:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I made a muslin of the top, and after numerous adjustments, I think it's going to fit. I'm concerned because it is still pretty tight in the waist, but according to Kenneth King, there should be no ease... and honey, there aint no ease in this! A couple of years ago, I took an online class on PR with Kenneth King on making a bustier. I'm hoping to incorporate some of the techniques into this garment.

First of all, the whole foundation of a strapless dress is in the lining. The lining holds the boning and the waist stay. Also, there should be a strong supportive fabric as an interlining between the lining and the fashion fabric. KK recommends using wool felt or unwashed denim, but I didn't want this to be a suit of armor. I did want something that would not stretch or give, so I decided to underline the lining with silk organza. I'm hoping this will give enough support while still being light weight and cool. The vogue pattern doesn't call for any underlining at all, so it will at least be a step up from that. This dress has a lot of favorable reviews on Pattern Review, so I'm really hoping for a good result. I have never made a strapless dress before, and probably haven't worn one for 20 years!

the next step on this dress will be to put the boning in the lining. KK recommends using rigeline boning, which I like, but the Vogue pattern called for covered, so that's what I'm using. The advantage of rigeline is that it supports the bodice all along the boning. Covered boning only supports at the top and bottom of the seam since the boning "floats" inside the casing. I've only used rigeline, so I wanted to try the covered and see which I liked better.

I have to drive out of town tomorrow, but I hope that I can get some done on this dress in the morning.

Burda 5775 - finished!

2010-06-20T19:53:00.000-07:00

Well, I finally got to my machine today, and I finished my dress. I put in one sleeve, but did not like the look. It seemed to look more matronly on me with the sleeve, so I took it off and bound the armholes with seam bindings. The neckline is finished with a facing. I'm wearing the dress right now, and even though it is pretty fitted, it is comfortable. I think I will get a lot of use out of this this summer.

I really need to get busy on my sewing. I have a wedding that I'm going to next weekend and I want to make this dress. It's Vogue 8184. I'm planning on doing the strapless version with the collar and fuller skirt. I'm going to make a prototype first, just to be sure I like it. If I don't, I'll probably make something totally different, like maybe a knit dress.

Tomorrow I have absolutely nothing on my calendar that I need to do! You KNOW what I'm going to be doing :-)

Oh, and thanks to all of you who made comments about my knee. As it turns out, I have a torn ACL and now I'm going to need surgery. Unfortunately, the soonest they can get me in is right when school starts. I can't imagine taking off work right then because I don't even know what I'm doing since I'm changing grades. I wouldn't even begin to know how to make sub plans. Also, this is a big deal and I will need to take a minimum of 4 weeks off work. I would wait until Christmas break, but right now I can't kneel, crouch, climb, run, or jump. This is not good. I just bought a new bike, and it's even been giving me trouble on the bike. I want to get it fixed, but I don't want to miss that much work. arghhhh...

i-pod/pad/phone users enabler allert

2010-06-16T09:25:00.000-07:00

Well, I was just browsing through bloglines this morning and on dress-a-day's post I read about an intriguing iphone ap. I clicked on the link and it directed me to this Threads review. So, being the tech junkie that I am, I headed straight for the apps store and picked up these two babies:
fabric stash
pattern pal
(sorry, I don't know how to link to these aps, but if you have itunes, open the apps link and then search for these two apps.)

These are both made by the same developer. I'm just downloading the, but they sound very good. I'll keep you posted!

The first day I was in San Diego I traveled all over looking for fabric stores. The first (and best) one I hit was yardage town. Nothing fancy but a great selection of fabrics. The prices were very good and I found a nice rayon acetate blend for a jacket and a tropical weight wool blend for pants. I am going back there again today.

The other fabric store I hit was in LaJolla named Jane's Fabrique. I was not impressed. They had a narrow selection of fabrics - or at least nothing that interested me. Fabrics were either $10-$15 a yard or $80-$90. Not much in between. There was a beautiful red tencel-rayon blend fabric with a wonderful drape. But there really wasn't anything I could think of that I would use it for. If it would have been in navy, ivory, or another good jacket color, I would have bought it for that, but there were only a couple of colors, none of which I was interested in.

Most of the other fabric stores that showed up on either my iphone or gps turned out to be either non existent or tailoring/alterations stores or sewing machine/vacuum stores.

Yesterday I tooled around downtown and the gaslamp district. Had a great lunch. Eventually I happened across the mall and went into Nordstroms. The salesgirl there was very friendly and helpful and I ended up buying 2 things there. By this time my feet were telling me "enough!" So I headed back to the parking garage - a good 6 city blocks and then back to the hotel.

Today I am headed back to yardage town just to look again with fresh eyes and see if anything else begs to be purchased! Also, I need to pick up some 2" wide elastic for this New Look pattern I picked up the other day.

This afternoon we are going to the zoo. I absolutely love to go to the zoo. I know the SD zoo really requires a couple of days to give it justice, but we only have this afternoon.

We are heading back to the valley tomorrow morning because Andy has a meetiing at 6. He is training for a triathalon for Team in Training which supports the leukemia and lymphma society. He is participating in honor of my dad who died almost 2 years ago (hard to believe it's been that long) of cancer. I'll be posting more about that later.

Hmmmm... I think someone wanted to go on the trip with us

Not Quite Finished

2010-06-12T22:11:00.001-07:00

I was hoping to finish the dress this evening because we are leaving for San Diego tomorrow. If I weren't singing at church, I could probably finish it in the morning. Oh well, when I get back. The neck facing is sewn in and under stitched, but still needs hand work. I just need to do the sleeves and the hem. I really like the fabric on this. It is a heavier weight cotton (& I think Lycra blend). I didn't mark the changes in length above the bust correctly, so I had to make 1/4" shoulder seams. The fabric was fraying at that seam before I could even finish the edge, so I pressed the seam open and laid a narrow strip of fusible interfacing on top of it. This will keep the edges of the seam from fraying and give a little extra stability to the shoulder seam. Most of that will be covered up by the neck facing.

I'll be anxious to get back and finish the dress.

Well, I'm sick of being fatter than ever and none of my clothes fitting right. Today I went back to weight watchers. I want to lose about 13 pounds. Also, we just got Wii Fit and have been having a blast playing it. In fact, DD is yelling at it right now :-) When I was in Uganda I had an accident and tore a ligament in my right knee. It is still giving me trouble, so I have to be careful about what exercises I do. The other day I was riding my bike and it popped out on me, so, I have been hesitant to do that either. I have an appt to get a second opinion next week.

DH has a business trip in San Diego this week, so I am tagging along. I'm hoping to find some good fabric stores to haunt while he is working. I also have a couple of good books I want to read while I'm there.

Burda 5775

2010-06-11T11:18:00.000-07:00

I'm working on a muslin, and it's a good thing. First of all, I decided to make this pattern from Burda. I think this is only the 2nd Burda envelope pattern I have made. The sizing is different than the big four, so I figured I better make a muslin. As I was laying out the pattern pieces for tracing, I realized that this is a pattern for petites! I looked at the envelope again, and nowhere did I see anything that indicated that this was for petites. I am 5'6 and the petite pattern is 5'3 and under. Finally I found this little indicator on the back of the envelope.

Well, since I already had everything out and ready, I decided to start tracing and try to get it to fit. I had to make a lot of changes, but I think I have the muslin fitting pretty well now. I have gained weight, so all of my usual changes are even more exaggerated now! After I tried on the muslin, I pinned out some additional changes as you can see here. I started with a 12 on the top, and am ending up taking about 1/2" out of the CF. It fits fine through the ribcage, but I had to go all the way to a size 22 for the hips! This is a very fitted dress - why I decided to make a fitted dress during the fattest stage of my life, I'll never know.

As I was putting together the muslin, I realized that the darts on the top and bottom do not line up. This is a perfect example of why you need to make a muslin sometimes - if not, you should ALWAYS walk your darts when they have seams to match up with. I'm not sure if the alignment problem was with the pattern, or if it had to do with my alterations, but I think it was the pattern because even the back did not line up and I did not change that.

After I tried on the muslin, I pinned out extra fabric at the center front and took out most of the length I had added in. I also had to let out some seams in the thigh area, so I know I have to add more width to the pattern there. Next, I made these changes on the paper pattern. I didn't make a sleeve, but I did walk the pattern lines to make sure they would fit and tried on the paper pattern. I did add 1/2" to the width.

I think the changes I have made will work. Now it is time to cut the real fabric!

Kayla and Kupono - Addiction

2010-06-07T22:25:00.000-07:00

SYTYCD (So You Think You Can Dance) has started its new season and looks very promising. This is my favorite dance from Mia Michaels (2 seasons ago I think):

Spring

2010-05-17T19:51:00.001-07:00

Today was a REALLY STRESSFUL day - so I need to focus on something OTHER than WORK. Let's see, it was 88 yesterday, but only 64 today. But, while we had sun, I got some pictures of what I like about SPRING!

These flowers my husband had sent to me at work. Now the blooms are faded away and I am going to plant it in the ground.

This vine has the most beautiful and prolific flowers each spring. I wish they would last all summer.

I love these iris. they practically grow like weeds in my front yard.

More iris. I'd really like to get some more colors.

This geranium is actually much brighter and prettier than it looks in this picture. This thing is growing like crazy, yet I have other geraniums that aren't doing nearly as well. Maybe it's the weeds that are keeping it alive :-)

A simple outfit for spring

2010-05-16T21:45:00.000-07:00

I wanted to make the navy blue pants, but as it turns out, the fabric has a subtle (lurex?) stripe that is horizontal. Not the look I'm going for in pants. It will make a great jacket some day, but I'll have to find some other navy fabric for the pants. So, I dug through my cabinet to see what else I wanted to make, and I found this great black poly crepe fabric. It is lightweight and perfect for spring. Since the fabric had a nice drape to it, I decided to make another pair of the Loes Hinse Oxford Pants. I love the front pockets on these. The top is a very simple pattern that I've had for awhile, Simplicity 8523. What I like about this top is that it is a simple pullover designed for a woven. It would also be a great sleeveless top. If I make it again, I will probably make the V neckline a little deeper, but this is perfect for work.

I still want to do the navy pants and blue top, but I will have to find some other fabric for the pants. Right now I am wanting to make some dresses, so hopefully you will be seeing some dresses from me soon.

And, I have some belated pictures of Mother's day that I have to share.

Why Didn't I get Any SEwing Done this Weekend?

2010-05-02T19:29:00.000-07:00

Because we spent our weekend working in the yard. Last year I planted a garden, but had minimal success. First of all, I do not have much room and second, our dirt was like a rock. Then, last year I heard about Square Foot Gardening. I was so interested, that I decided to order the book. While I was in Africa, Andy had someone make the wooden beds for us and then last weekend, they brought them over for us. I had told Andy about the soil mixture I wanted in the boxes, and when I got home form an event last weekend, the boxes were in place and filled. Unfortunately, they were not in place exactly where I wanted them and they had not put weed cloth underneath them. So, this weekend, we emptied the boxes and moved them. We made several trips to the hardware store getting plants, drip supplies, seeds, boards for the dividers, and other miscellaneous items. Today we got the plants in, but I still have some seeds to plant. I'm really pleased with how they turned out. Later this week we are going to put up trellis net and braces behind one of the boxes for tomatoes, cucumbers and beans.

So, as much as I wanted to get some sewing done this weekend, it once again, did not happen. I am planning though, and this is what I'm hoping to use next to make a pair of pants, top and jacket. I've had the navy fabric and the boucle for so long that I no longer have the cards that tell the fabric content. The navy fabric is probably some kind of polyester blend, and the boucle feels like maybe a cotton and rayon blend. I haven't decided whether I will line it yet or not. I'm going to make the Loes Hinse Bolero Jacket and the pants will be another pair of the Oxford Pants.

Ironing in the Village

2010-04-16T06:52:00.000-07:00

Yes, the women do iron in the village. But how do you do that when there is no electricity? Well, this is how!

It is called an "iron box". You go into the kitchen (a mud room with a fire and rocks holding up a pot of whatever is cooking) The smoke from the fire is usually pouring out, so we poor mzungus have our eyes filled with tears everytime we get near it, but it doesn't seem to bother the ladies who are sitting in there through out the morning cooking food. You must get coals from the fire and put them into the iron box. It really works. Sometimes.

The first day we tried to use the iron box, the coals were not hot enough. It was too early in the day and the fires had not been burning long enough to get good, hot coals. Therefore, the iron was not hot enough and was basically useless. We, of course, did not understand this, having never had to use a fire for anything except enjoyment (and I don't even have a fireplace either) except for the yearly camping trips when I was a child. Of course, I was a child then and not in charge of the fire! Well, back on track here, we just thought that these were kind of ineffective and so decided to go ahead without the benefit of an iron. Never thought I could sew without an iron, but you do find other ways to press open seams - like warm fingers, sticks, and pulling the fabric over the edge of a sharp corner, like on a table.

The following day, we had had HOT coals and it was amazing how well this little iron worked. We didn't have an ironing board, of course, but we did have a table. We also used a brick to keep the iron on when not in use. Of course, for us, it was clunky and difficult to use, but the women of the village were very adept at using this iron and "went to town" with it.

I really wish I were sewing today instead of having to go to work. I'll even have to go to work tomorrow, my day off, because progress reports have to go home. Is it summer yet?

Sewing in Uganda

2010-04-11T12:37:00.001-07:00

We finally made it back, safe and sound. It is such a long travel time to Uganda - it was about 20 hours of flying and about 10 hours of driving and layovers. But, we made it there and had a great time. We started our time there with a trip into Kampala to buy fabric. Now, that is taking your life into your own hands! If you've ever seen the way they drive in Italy, just multiply that by about 10 and you'll have the craziness of Uganda. Apparently there are few driving laws, and the ones that they do have, no one adheres to. Everyone drives agressively, and they only leave about 2 inches of space between vehicles, front, back and both sides! Trying to cross the street is like going on Fear Factor, but if you enjoy market style shopping, you would love it. We had a Ugandan lady with us named Betty, and she got us the great prices. If you go by yourself to Uganda and buy anything you pay the "Mzungu" (white person) price. If you have a Ugandan buy, it is about 50% cheaper.

We bought some beautiful wax prints that we cut and used for the ladies to make skirts. Fabric for making Kitenge (a type of Ugandan dress - and the kind of fabric we used) is sold in 6 yard lengths for anywhere from 1500 to 2500 Ugandan Shillings a yard/meter. We were able to get most of our fabric for about $.75 USD per meter. Other cotton fabric with a looser weave that is mostly used for over-skirtss (like we would use an apron to keep our clothes clean) is sold in 4 yard lengths, for about the same price.

So, after we purchased our fabrics, we took them back to our room and cut them into 2 yard lengths so the ladies could choose thier fabric and cut them out to make skirts. Some of the women we worked with had done a little sewing, a couple were fairly good, and some we beginners. Most did not speak English, but a few did and helped translate for us. The official language of Uganda is English, but even when they do speak English, it is hard to understand since they have a different pronunciation and intonation of the words.

They also have a different rhythm to their speech and use different phrases. For example, instead of saying "You're welcome" they say "OK, please" I love listening to them speak in the native Lugandan and in English. We had rented 2 treadle machines to use at the church and did all of our work in one of the rooms that used to be a school room. As you can see in the pictures, the walls are made of mud and have an opening at the top. This particular building had a metal roof, but part of it was thatch. It also leaked. It rained many of the days we were there, but the rain starts and stops suddenly, and dries up quickly.

The women loved the skirts, and most of them made 2 different skirts. On the last day, several of the women made tote bags. We usually started working with the women around 10:00 in the morning and sewed until around 2:00. At that time, we took a break and ate lunch. Other women had been cooking all morning in the room next to us, usually beans, rice, pineapple, and some kind of meat, but since I am a vegetarian, I did not eat the meat except for one day when they served fish. The women cook over a fire in large pots and the cooking, cleaning, and serving ends up being an all-day affair for them.

In the afternoons, we did a bible study with the women for about an hour and a half to two hours. We had about 20-30 women come on any given day. We talked with them about Christian living and worked in the book of Ephesians. Some of the women had Lugandan bibles, some had English bibles, but most could not read. We encouraged them to get together with some of the other women to encourage each other, read God's word, pray, and lift each other up. The women really loved this time and each day we had more than the day before. It was really a blessing to be there and be part of these women's lives. These ladies were the nicest people with the sweetest spirits. I felt like crying when we left because I know how much I will miss them.

I will have more to share later, but in the mean time, you can see more pictures here. Sewing in Uganda Album

Loes Hinse Cruise Pants

2010-02-24T19:31:00.000-08:00

OK, this is a cruddy, frumpy picture, but let's focus on the pants.

These were quick and easy to make. I bought this pattern at the same time as I got the Oxford Pants pattern. The two are basically the same except for the width of the legs. Both patterns have

the "Hollywood waist" style elasticized waist
in seam pockets
edge stitching on the side seams which make the pants legs hang nicely
darts in the back
easy and simple instructions

I love that these are so quick and easy to make, and are comfortable to wear.

I made these out of a navy blue linen/rayon blend. I intend to wear these on my trip to Uganda. 30 hours in flight - I will need COMFORTABLE pants.

I actually made these pants for spring and summer, so I will be wearing them with sandals. I wore them this evening to "test drive" them, but it's a bit cold here for sandals right now!

(Last year I wore another pair of navy pants on the flight. I had made them from a Marcy Tilton pattern. The elastic was in a casing, and wouldn't you know, my elastic broke on the plane! Now those pants were SUPER full and there was NO WAY that they would stay up without some immediate repair. Fortunately for me, one of the flight attendants had a large safety pin. Lesson learned: never go ANYWHERE in elastic waist pants unless you have a safety pin in your purse!!)

Interesting side note - when I looked back at the pictures of these pants, I noticed that I had a migraine the day I took those pictures. (If you want to see proof, take a look at this picture and look at my face.) Interestingly enough, I also have a migraine in today's pictures. Fortunately, not as bad as the one in the prior pictures!

The elastic in these pants is stitched all the way around, so even if the elastic did break, they would only loosen up a very little bit.

Next up will be another skirt. I will be wearing nothing but skirts in Uganda. The main reason is that that is what the women there wear. Another reason is that they are cooler than pants. Of course, the most important reason is that out in the villages they only have "squatty potties" Much easier to manage in a skirt!

Finally back online!

2010-02-21T08:39:00.000-08:00

Wow! I can't believe it has been so long since I posted on my blog! Well, I finally did find my camera. And yes, here is the culprit!

After I found my camera, then I couldn't find my charger! That was my fault though. I had put it somewhere I normally don't put it. But, now I am finally back in business.

I have been doing a little sewing, but not nearly as much as I would like to, or need to! I'm trying to get clothes ready for my upcoming trip and the time is getting short. It is very hot in Uganda, so cool clothes are the ticket. Dresses, skirts and blouses are all that the women wear in the villages, so that is what I will be wearing as well.
I have made two blouses and two skirts. The blouses are from McCalls 2094.

From Spring Clothes

I am very proud of myself on the skirts. They are self-drafted. I have never drafted anything before, so even though these were very simple, I am very pleased. I used the method outlined in the book called Sew What Skirts.
The book shows how to make a straight skirt and an A-line. I made both of mine A-line. I need to make bigger darts in the back on the floral skirt because I do not want it to ride that low on my hips. I inadvertantly made the waist too big when I changed the way I did the binding on the waist. I'm not looking forward to taking off all of that bias tape to adjust the waist, but I really like this fabric and want to be able to wear the skirt. The blue and green skirt with the orange trim fits perfectly.

These were both "practice" skirts, because I wanted to find the simplest methods using the least amount of materials for teaching the women in Uganda. This is what the plan is (at this point)

use the simple drafting method in Sew What Skirts to make the pattern for each lady
side seams only with darts in the back (Ugandan women are built very straight from the front view, but have bigger behinds - little waist indentation at the sides)
use straight stitch treadle sewing machines, and/or sew by hand
hand picked zipper
Cut a bias strip from leftover skirt fabric and fold in half and use to bind skirt top edge
double fold narrow hem at bottom
patch pockets if desired.
seams are stitched and then stitched again about 1/4" from original seam line (no sergers or pinking shears available.) I thought about doing french seams, but then didn't really know how to deal with the zipper.

As it turns out, I think it will just be Karen and I teaching the sewing, but I also think we will be working with a small group of women (5-10 at a time) so that sounds perfect. We will be doing the sewing at the "hotel" we will be staying at out in the courtyard. We will bring the women in by boda-boda (motorcycle taxi). This will be good because we will have tables available to us to lay things out where they won't get dirty. In the afternoons, we will go into the villages and meet with the ladies, do a bible study and encourage them in other ways. I'm hoping we will also have an opportunity to help them work at their homes. There are lots and lots of children in the villages, so I'm sure we'll be spending some time with them as well. I am very excited about going and am working on raising all the support I will need. If you are interested in helping out, please see this post.

sorry - temporary shut down

2010-02-01T09:02:00.000-08:00

Unfortunately, I have been receiving a rash of spam, backlinks, and comments in Chinese on my blog that I have no idea what it says. For this reason, I have shut down comments completely until I have time to find a better way to stop it. Thank you all for reading my blog and I will try to get this remedied ASAP.
You can contact me at nwinning at google dot com

Uganda Update

2010-01-30T13:16:00.000-08:00

I am starting to get very excited about the upcoming Uganda project. I just got off the phone with John, our facilitator, and am getting full of ideas.

We will be spending most of our time at the villages of Busanna and Kasana. We will be staying at a small "hotel" in a nearby town. We will bring the ladies to the hotel in the mornings to do sewing since there is electricity at the hotel (we will need for lights and irons and any electric machines we use) as well as covering in case it rains. It rains a lot in Uganda this time of year.
In the afternoons we will be going back out the the villages to meet with the women again and do "workshops" on Christian living.

Life is so difficult for these women. When I was there last year, I saw the women working all day long. Most (not all) of the men sat in the middle of the village and played games, gambled, and drank. The women take care of the children, prepare the food, do all the cleaning and washing, help other families, and put up with abuse. There seems to be a lot of domestic violence in the villages, and some of them even have thier own peace-keepers (kind of like police.)

We want to give these women as much encouragement as possible, and tools for dealing with whatever kinds of situations they have to live with. Most of all, we want to share the love of Jesus and give them hope.

Uganda Bound - Again

2010-01-28T07:33:00.000-08:00

I am so excited that I have the opportunity to go to Uganda again! For those of you who are new to my blog, last year I went to Uganda to teach women how to sew. It was awesome. Right now we are in the planning phase of another trip. We are planning on going March 27 to April 10.

Another woman from my church is going with me this year and we should be meeting two other women from back east (not sure where yet) who will be assisting us.
This is Karen and me.

Last year we went to Kampala, Busanna and Kasana, and I'm assuming we'll be going to the same areas this year. This year we will be teaching women how to sew skirts. Although there is electricity in the city of Kampala, it is very unpredictable. The villages do not have electricity, unless a generator is used for a special purpose - amazingly, all church services have loud PA systems! I think this year we will be using all treadle machines since they are more widely available there and certainly more practical. Last year we were unable to do the sewing in some of the villages due to unforseen events, and the women were disappointed. I am so glad that we will be able to go back this year and bring this opportunity to them! Many of the people (especially children) in these villages do not have any clothes at all. Last year I was the only one working with the sewing, so I am very thankful to have others with me this year.

Sewing is such a valuable skill. If you are reading my blog, chances are that you love sewing! It is so wonderful to be able to share a skill that not only do I love, but it is a skill that these women can use to provide clothing for their families and even produce income.

Time is short and I know the trip will be here before I know it. I still need to go get my shots, make up some sample skirts, and get my own things in order before we go. We will probably buy all the fabric there since they do have a "garment district" in the city of Kampala with some beautiful fabrics. The trip is going to end up costing around $4000.00, so we are in the fundraising stage right now.

If you are interested in helping the women of Uganda by supporting this ministry, I would really appreciate your support. Donations can be sent either directly to me or to International Messengers. If you mail your donation to International Messengers, please enclose a note stating that it is to support me (Nancy Winningham) so that the money will go to our mission trip. The address is:
International Messengers
PO Box 618
Clear Lake, IA 50428

If you prefer to send a check to me, please email me for my street address. My email is nwinning at gmail dot com.

I would also appreciate prayers for our ministry, that lots of women would come and that we would be able to work with them and share the love of Christ, that I would stay healthy in preparation and while on the trip, and for our safety while there.

There is still a lot of unrest in Uganda, and everywhere you go, you encounter corruption. The poverty is so extreme that I feel so insignificant while I'm there, but amazingly, the people are so grateful that we are even there.

I am so looking forward to doing this again and working with the women of Uganda. I thank you so much for all the prayers and support you can offer. For those of you who supported me last year, I can't begin to tell you what an impact you made, not only on these women, but on me as well. Thank you from the bottom of my heart!

AS of late...

2010-01-20T06:33:00.000-08:00

I have been a bad blogger. Things have been crazy-busy since we returned from Hawaii and school is sucking up all of my time. I'm hoping to get some sewing done this weekend. I did complete the first item for my swap: a black and white striped Tshirt with FOE at the neck and arms. Unfortunately, gremlins have absconded with my camera, so I have no pix.

I didn't make any New Years Resolutions this year, but I do have some goals. I am making great effort to change my diet to one of mostly Vegan fair. I've been doing pretty well with only one slip up of pizza and the other downfall has been staff meetings. They over-stress us with test score data and then throw chocolate candy at us.

I'm starting to make plans for another trip to Uganda, and will be giving more information in another post. I'm so excited to make this next trip as I have another friend who will be going with me to share in the sewing ministry.

On another note, my health has been really good this last year and my RA has been in remission most of the year. A couple of months ago it started biting back. Also, I may have ruptured another disk in my neck and am going in today for an MRI. I'm just praying that I don't have to have neck surgery again.

Kitties, Dobbo, and family are all well and we've been enjoying beautiful weather (that translates into little fog) Andy day that you can see the sky, cloudy or not, is a good day :-)

Well, that's my little update for now, although I hope to give a better post and show some sewing later this week. I'll have to borrow a camera though, I don't think I'm going to find mine :-(

Aprons

2010-01-06T17:36:00.000-08:00

I'm so glad I finally got some sewing done! Actually, I had to take today off work so that I could go to the doctor, so I used some time this afternoon to finish up these aprons. They really are belated Christmas presents for my brother and his girlfriend. First I made the black apron for my brother. He is a big Beatles fan, so when I found this fabric several months ago, I bought some thinking I would make a pillow or something. Then I got the idea for an apron for Christmas.

I had a hard time finding something that I thought Margie would like, but when I was at the fabric store I found this fabric and remembered that she is a "horse person" so thought it would be perfect.

I made both of the aprons this afternoon, so I have not given them to them yet. I hope they will like them.

The pattern is an old OOP Simplicity pattern, but I really like it because it has a variety of apron styles in it. Now I want to make one for myself. But first, I really want to get started sewing for my SWAP.